Riser Recliners and Furniture High Seat / Nursing Home Chairs / Furniture Riser Recliner Chairs
MacPherson-strut suspension can be used at both front and rear. The wheel hub is fixed rigidly to an upright, telescopic, tubular strut which has its top end anchored to the frame or to a reinforced wing.
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@ Grunchy: Very good question regarding the un-sprung weight. Due to the internal suspension, only about a 1/3 of the total weight of the wheel is un-sprung weight, actually lowering the weight that is 'seen' by the axle. Therefore, even IF the ASW would be heavier overall, the vehicle's drive-train sees far less strain and weight. Forgot your password? SHOP WHEEL & TIRE PACKAGES WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION ACCESSORIES APPAREL TODAY'S DEALS SHOP ALL GALLERY ADD MY CAR VIEW GALLERY BRANDS WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION VIEW ALL GIVEAWAY CURRENT GIVEAWAY OUR DONATIONS ABOUT STREET TEAM OUR STORY RESOURCES BLOGS WHEEL GUIDE TIRE GUIDE SUSPENSION GUIDE CALCULATORS VIDEOS GALLERY CONTACT US TRACK YOUR ORDER SHOP + WHEEL & TIRE PACKAGES WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION ACCESSORIES APPAREL TODAY'S DEALS SHOP ALL GALLERY + ADD MY CAR VIEW GALLERY BRANDS + WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION SHOP ALL GIVEAWAY + CURRENT GIVEAWAY OUR DONATIONS ABOUT + STREET TEAM OUR STORY RESOURCES + BLOGS WHEEL GUIDE TIRE GUIDE SUSPENSION GUIDE CALCULATORS VIDEOS GALLERY CONTACT US TRACK YOUR ORDER
"I want to say a very big thank you to Rebecca for all her help and patience over the last few weeks. She is a real credit to the company. "
Why allow weather to limit your performance? TRX employs an initial 45/55 torque split and manages engine horsepower for optimal launch performance on snow and ice.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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With every rotation the springs will bend and absorb a amount of energy. Normally this is called “damping”. Its pretty useful in some cases. But it’s pretty unusual to damp a rotation of wheels, because this will slow down the straight moving. For Bicycles (and all other vehicles) you should mount your springs in the direction where the impact is coming from plus a additional damper to stop the bouncing of the spring. David on April 14th, 2013 - 6:03pm Hmmmm on April 14th, 2013 - 6:31pm
If it offers a lot of suspension travel than it has potential, but if it’s only a little bit, then one has to wonder why they didn’t just upsize the tire and lower the pressure a bit. stodr on April 14th, 2013 - 3:15pm
A robust cast-iron block restrains a forged-steel crankshaft with induction-hardened bearings, all engineered to withstand firing pressures of 1,595 psi—the equivalent of 20,000 pounds of force.
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When you provide the correct make, model (and version if applicable), and year information about the vehicle we do verify bolt pattern, TPMS sensors and lug nuts (these items we guarantee fitment).
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That first grant helped us to develop our first loopwheel for wheelchairs. Getting the support from Innovate UK was crucial to us. We should have applied for R&D support earlier, it would have helped us to get a lot further a lot faster.
The primary purpose of a shock or strut is to keep the tire rolling flat on the ground when driving down the road. They are designed to provide stability in your vehicle suspension system. They play a vital role when it comes to vehicle performance, handling, braking, and wheel alignment. It is recommended that shocks and struts should be replaced every 50,000 miles.