Honda Info Center Vehicles YEAR 2022 2021 2020 2019 2018 2017 OWNERS RESOURCES DEALER LOGIN OWNERS RESOURCES DEALER LOGIN 2022 Pilot - Honda Information Center 2022 Pilot Engine/Chassis Features 4-Wheel Independent Suspension Pilot’s sophisticated suspension delivers exceptionally fun-to-drive handling for a vehicle of this size and capability, along with remarkable comfort. The independent design means that bumps affecting one wheel do not directly disrupt the movement of the wheel on the opposite side. Bumps are better isolated and other wheels remain in contact with the ground for improved ride and traction. 4-Wheel Independent Suspension PRINT SAVE PDF 2022 Pilot Feature Guide PRINT SAVE PDF Help make this site better
Might try the rotor idea. Would need to make the drive rotors on either side of each gantry arm on a group and set up some hotbar options for control, but it should work. Yeah, you're right in that I should have said 'sufficiently rigid' as if you set it too stiffly it will explode. Wheel suspensions are pretty stable. As mentioned above, cranking up the stiffness and forcing 1-2 wheels to do all the stabilizing... can lead to boom. If you spread out the load over more suspensions, there's less load on any given area, on both grids, which can lead to you being happier all around. (Repairs are a *CENSORED* on some of those moving devices)
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For me, base on this design, as long as you can maintain the hub to be: ground to hub distance would always be greater than the hub to the horizontal distance (radius) to the rim. then you should be fine.
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They’ve also developed a more bullet-proof wheelset with 25mm of shock travel called Fluent B designed for urban bike share programs. It includes a dynamo front and an internally geared rear hub. Lastly, the Fluent E is an e-bike version with 40mm of stroke and an integrated proprietary rear hub motor.
Reinventing the wheel: The Loopwheels use large springs instead of spokes to give the bike wheels built in suspension
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Loopwheels give a smoother ride on bumpy, uneven ground such as woodland tracks, cobbles, grass and beach as well as smoother surfaces like paths around town.
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"I am very pleased with my Loopwheels. They look good and they make the track smoother. I think I go faster with them...." The Ultimate Wheelchair Suspension Reduce vibrations by up to 70% with Loopwheels
Loopwheels give you a smoother ride. They are more comfortable than standard wheels: the carbon springs absorb tiring vibration, as well as bumps and shocks. They’re designed for everyday use and are strong and durable.
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When Israeli farmer and entrepreneur Gilad Wolf broke his leg several years ago, being in a wheelchair didn’t stop him from venturing out to his fields and checking on crops.
Man, every time I’m on my flat bar hipster fixie chariot I ask myself why don’t I have more suspension? mopedssuck on May 20th, 2016 - 9:35am Tom on May 20th, 2016 - 9:55am stiingya on May 21st, 2016 - 12:35am stiingya on May 21st, 2016 - 12:58am traildog on May 20th, 2016 - 9:44am
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