UPDATE: After several long rides on very rocky mountain roads and trails I just had to change my rating from 4 to 5 stars. This bike is that nice, and it didn't seem fair to down grade the rating due to slow poor FedEx service.
As you can see, the fitment looks very good on the car. The wheels and tires fill out the wheel wells satisfyingly, though don’t rub in any way. Since the tires are summer fitment, we are running them only in warmer weather. Before the seasons turned, we were able to log some miles and found that the greater weight and larger contact patch with summer compound tires did take a toll on range. We’ve seen that come in at about 185-190 miles for a full charge in fall temperatures.
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- Suspension systems, by their very nature, allow movement. This is bad on something that needs to be solid. When the gantry is holding something, I don't want the arms to flex, bend, pivot, or do any of the things a suspension would do.
Now consider the car that it replaces. The first-generation 2009 Chrysler 300C AWD was equipped with 18-inch wheels at the largest. A set of four 225/60R18 Continental ContiProContact ContiSeal tires is available from TireRack.com for $596, not including mount, balance, disposal, or alignment at your local retailer.
Here we are... again. When I started writing in March 2020 about shielding, I didn't think that 10 months later we would still be in thi...
OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
Looks great...thanks! Those are very clear, telling pics...no fear about getting 20" wheels now. I appreciate it. Not to mention the tires are significantly cheaper than 19's. What I was referring to before was a generalization with 19" wheels as opposed to your concern of having 20". When it comes to how a car looks with aftermarket wheels, it really depends on a combination of the offset, size and width. A combination of the three as compared with stock specs will either give you more positive or negative camber and therefore can change the wheel gap. Before you make your purchase, I recommend learning how the dimensions of your setup will change based on the wheels that you want. This will give you a better understanding of their affect on your wheel gap. The pics i've seen so far have been fine so I doubt there will be a huge change but nonetheless, your best bet would be finding a picture of a stock suspension car with the same sized wheels and offsets that you want.
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Given no e-trons yet wear a 22-inch wheel from the factory, we didn’t have a recommended factory fitment tire. However, we noticed Vossen’s own upgraded e-tron (see: Academic e-tron, p.36 Q3_2019) used 285/35R22. As it happened, this was the exact fitment that was already on these former Q7 fitted wheels. Given the 285/35R22 Toyo Proxes S/T tires were properly weight rated and that Vossen had experienced no problems, we decided to give them a try.
I started to remove the bike and it came out easily. I began removing the padding and cutting zip ties. Everything looked great although I was a bit concerned as there were no instructions included. Upon further unpacking, I could easily see there were minor steps to assembly which became self explanatory. I screwed in the right peddle and a small bearing fell into my hand. I called the number on the bike and explained the situation. In under 10 mins, a new peddle was on its way free of charge. I completed the assembly and took it for a test drive. The bike felt solid and drove like a champ! This is going to be a fun bike to use on the trails!! Bike arrived yesterday, so I put it together last night, and attempted to ride it. The gears don't change properly, and the chain constantly runs on the chain guard. Tries to adjust the gears, but to no avail. I got it close but either the chain runs while pedalling l, or the gears don't move to the next sprocket when the trigger is pulled... I'm going to try again tonight after work, bit I'd like to talk to the seller a out this issue.... a brand new bike out of the box should change gears.... I think.
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Looks great...thanks! Those are very clear, telling pics...no fear about getting 20" wheels now. I appreciate it. Not to mention the tires are significantly cheaper than 19's. What I was referring to before was a generalization with 19" wheels as opposed to your concern of having 20". When it comes to how a car looks with aftermarket wheels, it really depends on a combination of the offset, size and width. A combination of the three as compared with stock specs will either give you more positive or negative camber and therefore can change the wheel gap. Before you make your purchase, I recommend learning how the dimensions of your setup will change based on the wheels that you want. This will give you a better understanding of their affect on your wheel gap. The pics i've seen so far have been fine so I doubt there will be a huge change but nonetheless, your best bet would be finding a picture of a stock suspension car with the same sized wheels and offsets that you want.
Here are a couple of pics of my 2009 G37S with stock suspension and 20" wheels. I would love to lower the front some but I am fine with the back and I don't want to get into all the other issues that come up with lowering a car (rubbing, alignment issues, etc etc).
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