“Potholes, cracks, cobbles – when you have chronic pain, you feel every vibration like a knife. Loopwheels took only a second to fit. They definitely reduce the pain of going over bumps, kerbs and cobbles and have made every trip out far more comfortable.”
The gantry was to work by building a framework, with rails constructed from 1x1 blocks. The gantry X/Y axis arms are to traverse the rails with wheels. There would then be some pistons for the z axis, a rotor, and finally a landing gear for grabbing. All pretty straightforward stuff. On something like this, you do not want suspension on the wheels:
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Anyway, I originally ordered two solid honeycomb-types tires, assuming the claims of then being nearly impossible to mount were wildly overblown... of course, I was unable to mount the rear (I didn’t even attempt the front). This is a perfect replacement and the included rotor and rim appear identical to OEM.
When driven wheels are independently suspended, the differential is fixed to the frame and drives the wheels by jointed drive shafts.
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When you have spent your whole life with rigid spoked wheels, they may seem strange to you at first. But we believe you’ll soon love the differences of the Loopwheel.
SoftWheel also claims that this movement measurably decrease the energy lost from suspension movement. Their simulated track testing equated these gains to 16.4% extra energy that was not lost in a traditional suspension system. That of course means saving energy for the rider, and results in faster rolling. We’ve seen conceptually similar solutions like the carbon leaf Loop Wheels without damping, and even a smaller amount of suspension built into Gokiso’s hubs, but these Fluent wheels are certainly more tech-heavy.
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
@ Grunchy: Very good question regarding the un-sprung weight. Due to the internal suspension, only about a 1/3 of the total weight of the wheel is un-sprung weight, actually lowering the weight that is 'seen' by the axle. Therefore, even IF the ASW would be heavier overall, the vehicle's drive-train sees far less strain and weight. Forgot your password? SHOP WHEEL & TIRE PACKAGES WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION ACCESSORIES APPAREL TODAY'S DEALS SHOP ALL GALLERY ADD MY CAR VIEW GALLERY BRANDS WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION VIEW ALL GIVEAWAY CURRENT GIVEAWAY OUR DONATIONS ABOUT STREET TEAM OUR STORY RESOURCES BLOGS WHEEL GUIDE TIRE GUIDE SUSPENSION GUIDE CALCULATORS VIDEOS GALLERY CONTACT US TRACK YOUR ORDER SHOP + WHEEL & TIRE PACKAGES WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION ACCESSORIES APPAREL TODAY'S DEALS SHOP ALL GALLERY + ADD MY CAR VIEW GALLERY BRANDS + WHEELS TIRES SUSPENSION SHOP ALL GIVEAWAY + CURRENT GIVEAWAY OUR DONATIONS ABOUT + STREET TEAM OUR STORY RESOURCES + BLOGS WHEEL GUIDE TIRE GUIDE SUSPENSION GUIDE CALCULATORS VIDEOS GALLERY CONTACT US TRACK YOUR ORDER
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Loopwheels are currently available in a 20-inch size for bikes and a larger size for wheelchairs. They are working on 26- and 29-inch wheels for bicycles. They are currently available as a retrofit for Dahon or Tern foldingbikes and have a 100mm front fork for the changeover. The wheels themselves cost $462 US while a Loopwheels folding bike will set you back $1,493.
Have you owned this car from day 1? because that's definitely not sitting at the stock height. lol.
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A rear-wheel-drive car often has a live axle , a tube containing both the drive shafts (half shafts) and the differential gears . A four-wheel-drive car may have a live front axle as well.
Final pricing hasn’t been set, but it looks like the standard wheelset should run about $2000 when they are available sometime later this year. In each of the wheels they use tech called Adaptive Rigidity that seems to be an optimized suspension tune geared to “absorb the bumps that matter and stay rigid over the ones that don’t”. How that is achieved isn’t entirely clear, but is certainly a unique take on suspending a bike. notRapha on May 20th, 2016 - 8:06am Matt on May 20th, 2016 - 8:36am Greg on May 20th, 2016 - 8:44am