Now consider the car that it replaces. The first-generation 2009 Chrysler 300C AWD was equipped with 18-inch wheels at the largest. A set of four 225/60R18 Continental ContiProContact ContiSeal tires is available from TireRack.com for $596, not including mount, balance, disposal, or alignment at your local retailer.
I might eventually drop it. You have remember though, the roadsters sit atleast a half inch lower than the coupes to begin with (stock). Here's mine on 19's. I'll probably cut down the spring seats to level it up a bit in the rear. Use a slightly taller tire. That helps alot. Mine are 275/35/19 and 285/35/19 and I love the way it looks on the stock suspension. Last edited by Firehawk; 02-26-2007 at 03:34 AM. with my roadster, i went from Eibach, to Hotchkis, and now waiting for Tein Htech to come in. I think Htech will be the perfect drop for me, LOL Even with 35 sidewall tires, the gap in stock suspension is horrible. There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them.
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As a comparison, consider the 1995 Corvette ZR-1, an ultra-high performance, 405 horsepower Corvette of which 527 units were sold. It came equipped with 17-inch wheels and tires. The front tires were 275/45R17s, meaning they were three-quarters of an inch thicker, had the same height sidewall, but were smaller than the Taurus by two inches in diameter.
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My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.
Each time the wheel revolves, you’re compressing “suspension”. This means that precious rider energy is being wasted, constantly. It’s kind of like the drag you get from soft, 5″ fat tires.
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UnusedIn its original packaging (with the tags)In a resaleable conditionWith its proof of purchaseYou’ll also need to return any free items that came with the product.
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The Loopwheels’ spring system between the hub and the rim cushions the rider from potholes and bumps in the road. It also reduces road noise by absorbing it, thereby reducing vibration through the frame—and into the rider’s arms and body. Because the suspension is inside the wheel, you don’t need fat tires to make the ride nicer. Instead, you can use high-pressure or puncture-resistant tires.
Loopwheels come in front- and rear-specific versions, one of the key differences being that the springs in the front wheel are twice as compliant as those in the back. This is (presumably) to help keep the wheel that does the steering from being knocked and bounced around, plus it compensates for the fact that more of the rider’s weight tends to be centered over the rear wheel.
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A Kickstarter project has already raised £48,000, exceeding the £40,000 target needed to get production started, and Mr Pearce, who is developing the wheel with his wife Gemma, admitted he was stunned by the response.
Gekko are designed for wheelchair users with complete hand function and complete or limited hand strength. Our best selling ergonomic push rim.
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