Instead of sharing a common axle, each wheel on a car with independent suspension is independently attached to the body or subframe. Different spring combinations may be used.
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That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
Find suspension kits that fit your ride with our easy search tool! Enter your vehicle’s year, make, model, and trim to find aftermarket suspension that is specifically designed for your truck. From lowering kits to leveling kits and truck suspension lift kits, we have everything you need to achieve the look that you want for your wheels.
When taking on dunes, this off-road truck reduces shift times by 68%, sets its suspension on full damping and allows for moderate oversteer to impart maximum fun.
There are three times when you should get your steering and suspension systems inspected. Every 50,000 miles (approximately 80,000 km). As part of your annual service or any time your car is in for routine service and the steering and suspension systems are accessible. When your tyres are replaced. When your brakes are serviced. When your oil and filters are changed.
For me, base on this design, as long as you can maintain the hub to be: ground to hub distance would always be greater than the hub to the horizontal distance (radius) to the rim. then you should be fine.
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A picture of the very incomplete gantry as it currently is, to give a better idea of what I'm up to: < > The only other way to get wheels to turn is either roll them freely unbound to anything, or attach them to a rotor. You can adjust the suspension settings to make them ridged, and you can use vertically oriented suspensions to prevent side wobble as if it was on rails. Wheels lack any form of propulsion on their own. They also lack any form of innate rotation ability. They're just cylindrical objects, exactly as they are in the real world (try welding a wheel directly to something sometime and see how well it spins). You need to provide an axle to them, and propulsion should you require it as well.
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The front wheels must be free to pivot on their steering swivels. The driven wheels, whether front or rear, must also be free to rotate with the drive shafts .
Stainless steel spring shock absorber casters Material: PP core with TPR wheel Suspension Mount: SUS 304 Wheel Size:Ø75 x 32mm,Ø100 x 32mm,Ø125 x 32mm Load:70kg,100kg,120kg Bearing: Ball Bearing