Maybe I’m wrong but wouldn’t the wheel react differently every time you hit the same obstacle depending on how the shocks are pointed? Bartthebikeman on May 20th, 2016 - 2:58pm
Each wheel incorporates a regular hub, with a hub brake and hub gearing. Instead of spokes, however, three looped carbon composite springs run from the hub to the rim. Whenever the wheel hits a bump in the road, the energy is absorbed by those springs.
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An important consideration when dealing with e-tron is the aforementioned weight. Though smaller than the SQ7 TDI sold in Europe with its heavy V8 TDI engine, the e-tron is still some 400 lbs. heavier. If you go with a wheel that’s not weight rated for your car, you could find yourself easily bending your wheels or even worse. We did our best to find out what we could about the weight rating of the SQ7 wheel and came away confident enough to give it a try. Even still, it is heavier than stock and boasts a wider contact patch, which meant our electric range would suffer.
Loopwheels give a smoother ride on bumpy, uneven ground such as woodland tracks, cobbles, grass and beach as well as smoother surfaces like paths around town.
With 12% extra hi-tech carbon than our classic Loopwheels, Loopwheels Carbon offer a sportier ride – so you can go steadier and stronger than before. The same comfort and protection against damaging vibration as our Loopwheels Classic, with additional lateral stability for an added feeling of security. Designed for a sportier suspension than our Loopwheels Classic, at low speeds and primarily for manual use. Gorgeous carbon finish and reflective logos to help you be seen in the dark
The spokes on a standard spoked wheel hold it in tension. If the spokes lose tension, they start to break and the rim will buckle. A Loopwheel is not held in tension by its springs therefore the rim is strong, double-walled, and less likely to suffer from buckling or fracture at the rim.
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Take your trial wheels for a spin. Try them out on roads, cobbled pavements or grass and feel an incredible difference.
GACW Inc has signed a Supply, Service and Exclusive Agent Agreement with Brownfield Engineering and Maintenance Pty Ltd, a leading Australian engineering and maintenance company to market and distribute GACW’s Air Suspension Wheel (ASW) technology to the mining Off the Road (OTR) sector.
Is this a real problem? Or rather, is it such a big deal? People using your driveway as a turnaround. Cars getting lost or going one street too far and pulling into 20' of your pavement to correct their mistake. Since...
item 6 Hot Wheels New Track Free Shipping Loop Builder with launcher 6 -Hot Wheels New Track Free Shipping Loop Builder with launcher
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
I was gonna make a snarky remark about damping, but if that setup provides <1.5" or so of suspension on a commuter bike, it's probably a good thing. Max on April 14th, 2013 - 5:58pm
A good selection of accessories such as screws, bolts, washers and nuts that you may need for your daily engineering usage. Screws, Bolts Screws for Building Materials Washers Nuts Anchors Rivet Insert Tools Washers, Collars Shims Hair Pins, Cotter Pins Machine Keys Retaining Rings Screw Plugs Adjuster Dowel Pins, Spring Pins, Stepped Pins
Emerging GearFrom next-gen tech to ingenious innovation, our weekly peek at emerging products examines the sometimes cutting-edge, sometimes quirky world of gear design. Spoke Shocks: Radical MTB Suspension Concept
Chief customer and supplier friend. Organised. Helpful. Always cheerful - even on a bad day. Small Team. Big Vision. Loopwheels are designed and made in the UK. Loopwheels Carbon Wheels Overview In Action Specifications Reviews Home / Loopwheels Wheelchair Wheels / Loopwheels Carbon Wheels Loopwheels Carbon Wheels Choose the perfect wheels for you... Rim size: Choose an option24 inch25 inch Push Rim Offset: Choose an optionnarrow (11mm)wide (19mm) Push Rim Type: Choose an optionCurve Grip (+£380)Curve Large (+£300)Gekko (+£380)Standard Black Aluminium Tyres: Choose an optionNo TyresSchwalbe Tyres with Schrader Car Valve (+£90)Clear
Rear Loopwheels are about twice as stiff as front installations, and wheels can be used both separately with a spoked wheel, or as a set, plus as the lone form of bike suspension, or in addition to suspension forks. At only around 0.7 pounds heavier than spoked equivalents, Loopwheels make for particularly appealing add-ons to folding bikes, most of which don't bother with suspension systems due to the weight and bulk they pile on.
The primary purpose of a shock or strut is to keep the tire rolling flat on the ground when driving down the road. They are designed to provide stability in your vehicle suspension system. They play a vital role when it comes to vehicle performance, handling, braking, and wheel alignment. It is recommended that shocks and struts should be replaced every 50,000 miles.
When off road, use the Vehicle Dynamics page to dial in the optimal steering angle, lock your axles and modulate your transfer case gearing.
The front wheels must be free to pivot on their steering swivels. The driven wheels, whether front or rear, must also be free to rotate with the drive shafts .
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Loopwheels: The Shock-Abosorbing Wheels for Wheelchairs Posted by Rory Telfer on March 9, 2015 at 12:08 in Wheelchairs & Mobility View Discussions
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Loopwheels reduce vibrations by up to 70% compared with metal spoked wheels. Our innovative Loopwheel technology now comes with 12% extra hi tech carbon.
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I bought a pair of loop wheels a couple a years ago, unless they have improved, i found they bend from side to side. After spending a lot of money on them, i returned to my spocked wheels. So far there is nothing to beat the spocked tried and most successful design. the best suspension i found is seat post suspension and front faulk suspension.
TRX awaits your command. Create a tailored driving experience by dialing in your preferred steering feel, torque split, suspension firmness and more.
With scores of iterations, and hundreds of man-hours invested in the final product they are undeniably good-looking wheels, at first glance (and second glance, and then just staring at them) they wouldn’t appear out of place on a BMW concept car – but this isn’t pie-in-the-sky, these wheels are here and, thanks to their Kickstarter success, very much NOW!
underscore_string is Copyright (c) 2011 Esa-Matti Suuronen [email protected]
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... Loopwheels
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@SandyEggoSi Locating Pin? Strut is slotted already and has cam bolts right? Or am I missing something? @SandyEggoSi Locating Pin? Strut is slotted already and has cam bolts right? Or am I missing something? Our cars don't come with OEM camber bolts on the lower strut mount. But Honda was nice enough to give us slots on the upper strut mount under the hood of the car in the engine bay. Here's a diagram:
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I don’t think it would affect the brake track. The wheel would flex on the bottom but would return to original shape and diameter when it rolled far enough to not be in contact with the ground. If it did not return to original shape or size after the flex the ride would be really crappy. iperov on April 14th, 2013 - 3:40pm Ck on April 14th, 2013 - 3:46pm comrade on April 14th, 2013 - 4:14pm seramik on April 14th, 2013 - 4:50pm MMyers on April 14th, 2013 - 5:39pm
Double wishbones are used mostly at the front. There are two wishbones, one above the other, to keep the wheel upright as it rises and falls.
Not for you? At the end of your trial we’ll arrange collection of your wheels – no obligations, no questions asked, no extra fees.
Winter is always a time of year where my symptoms flare and I think a lot of it is due to the cold weather. Winter, for me, is a happy time ...
GACW Inc has signed a Supply, Service and Exclusive Agent Agreement with Brownfield Engineering and Maintenance Pty Ltd, a leading Australian engineering and maintenance company to market and distribute GACW’s Air Suspension Wheel (ASW) technology to the mining Off the Road (OTR) sector.
Simply put, the suspension system connects the vehicle to its wheels. In doing so, it takes responsibility for two main functions: Providing a comfortable ride for the driver and passengers by smoothing out the bumps and other imperfections in the road. Keeping the wheels on the ground as much as possible to provide traction.
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Wife-and-husband design and manufacturing business Jelly Products has come up with a way to make life better and more comfortable for wheelchair-users with its innovative ‘loopwheel’.
We put up with a lot from our pneumatic tires, from punctures and blowouts, to slashings and the certainty of relatively frequent, inconvenient replacements and giant piles of waste rubber. The current technology seems well overdue for a revolutionary overhaul, if you'll pardon the pun, and yet despite dozens of fascinating attempts to reinvent the wheel, nothing seems to have found traction yet. Boy, I'm on a roll here.
In 2020, we donated $130,000 to numerous charities! Let's continue to keep growing together as a community. Most Popular Wheels Available & In-Stock Artisa ArtFormed Elder Enkei RPF1 AVID1 AV20 Artisa ArtFormed Titan AVID1 AV6 Artisa ArtFormed Carrier XXR 521 F1R F29 Artisa ArtFormed Night XXR 571 Aodhan AH-X Artisa ArtFormed Kinetic Konig Ampliform View Popular, In-Stock Wheels View Popular, In-Stock Wheels View Top 21 Wheels of 2021 The Largest Online Fitment Gallery View the Full Gallery Popular Suspension Shop Popular Suspension
Bold, beautiful and precision-engineered to last. The iconic in-wheel shock absorbers offer a truly unique style. Whether made from aluminum, magnesium or carbon fiber, SoftWheels are guaranteed to turn heads day or night.
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Wheels Brakes and Clamps Front Castor Wheels Handrims Rear Wheels Spoke Guards Spokes Tyres and Inner Tubes
ko2's are more like 1k. unless he puts on some P rated stock size ones. which seems silly. $800 on Amazon for C load 285's - so I was a little off. I was also assuming prices of shopping around, or else the SPC's would've been stated a bit higher. Reply With Quote 03-15-2020, 11:03 PM #5
It is curious as to why they put the valve stem in the middle of a loop and not between. Ham-planet on April 15th, 2013 - 3:06am
Loopwheels reduce the level of vibration—“road noise”—through the chair frame and up into the arms, wrists and shoulders.
The £600 wheel is set to go on sale in September following a hugely successful Kickstarter campaign to raise money for the project.
