Colour of loops - Black , Colour of logos - Red, Pink, Yellow, Green, Teal, Light Blue, Grey, Purple Bad Good Available Options --- Please Select --- Without tyre Schwalbe marathon plus tyre and Presta inner tubes (+ £73.00) Schwalbe marathon plus tyre and Schrader inner tubes (+ £73.00) --- Please Select --- Aluminium anodised Narrow (11mm) Aluminium anodised Wide (19mm) --- Please Select --- Grey logo colour Pink logo colour Purple logo colour Red logo colour Teal logo colour Yellow logo colour Blue logo colour Green Logo colour --- Please Select --- 25" 24"
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Instead of sharing a common axle, each wheel on a car with independent suspension is independently attached to the body or subframe. Different spring combinations may be used.
on flat ground due to the hub always being nearer the ground than the top of the wheel, all three “loops” have to flex and return for each revolution of the wheel, meaning it would be like going up a gentle hill all the time (work wise)? (unlike conventional suspension that will flex due to riders weight and stop regardless of revolutions.
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However, this design pushes past the norms of mountain bike suspension — and design — and has us excited to see what could arise.
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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I was happy with my purchase until this point. The bike looks nice and handled great. The only issue I noticed before this was that the left gear (I’m no bike expert, sorry if if that’s not the correct term) sort of made a weird noise when switching between one of the three settings (the chain sort of took a while to set correctly). The right gear worked flawlessly.
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When one wheel moves up it pulls up one end of the bar and the other end pulls up the other wheel, keeping the car level.
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The airline industry is already in touch with SoftWheel, and the company sees immense potential there. But planes and automobiles will have to wait a while, Barel said, as the Israeli firm is focused first on wheelchairs and bikes.
Lower Back Vibration Feeling
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Mongoose Switchback Adult Mountain Bike, 8-21 Speeds, 27.5-Inch Wheels, Aluminum Frame, Disc Brakes, Multiple Colors
The latest idea to come across our desks, though, makes a compelling business case for itself as well as offering some interesting dynamic capabilities. Meet the Air Suspension Wheel (ASW), from Global Air Cylinder Wheels out of Chandler, Arizona.
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Take your trial wheels for a spin. Try them out on roads, cobbled pavements or grass and feel an incredible difference.
How does it constrain the axial translation and the 3 rotations? Is is springy in all those 4 directions as well? Greg Mixson April 18, 2013 01:24 PM
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@SandyEggoSi Locating Pin? Strut is slotted already and has cam bolts right? Or am I missing something? @SandyEggoSi Locating Pin? Strut is slotted already and has cam bolts right? Or am I missing something? Our cars don't come with OEM camber bolts on the lower strut mount. But Honda was nice enough to give us slots on the upper strut mount under the hood of the car in the engine bay. Here's a diagram:
A loopwheel doesn’t have the same rigidity and stiffness that’s necessary in a spoked wheel.
If the SoftWheel catches on in the way Barel thinks it will, Israel will become a world center of wheel technology and production. “Nearly all the materials we use to produce our wheels are made in Israel, and we are currently building a large production facility in northern Israel to build SoftWheels,” said Barel. “This, like our product, is an innovation as well, because not too many industrial products are made in Israel. All around we are developing a new paradigm, one we believe the world will embrace.”
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Loopwheels are designed to help you push over uneven streets, cobbles, grass, rough tracks and gravel paths, with less effort.
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Back Vibration Feeling
Making shock-absorbing wheels for bikes, trikes and wheelchairs, to help you go more places, more comfortably and more easily.
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The wheel allows for vertical compression but provides rigidity in the lateral direction. The LoopWheel technology can also be used for wheelchairs providing comfort for the user.
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agreed..but if money is an issue, I'd grab the $100 set of springs first then get the wheels. from experience in my trans am, springs/shocks/struts/whatever made a HUGE HUGE HUGE difference. I put vette wheels on and I just got wider tires which was sweet but i noticed a BIGGER difference from springs/shocks Well, my budget only allows for one at a time, and i'm just worried if I get springs ill have to just take guesses on wheel/tire sizes. I'm very unfamiliar with this kinda stuff as it is my first go. From what I am gathering the springs i'm planning on getting lower 1.5 - 1.75 im guessing the 1.75 is after they kinda break in over time. Not sure. However, the issue is knowing what tires to go with. If I have to chose 1.5 or 1.75 which is a better option? Keep in mind i'm most likely getting 15X7wheels, seems common enough and im not big on bigger size wheels, hell, i'm rocking 13's at the moment, steelies.. but 13's either way Also, I am not the fan of the "slammed" scene. I am more so into the flush look. Deleted wheel gap but not so over the top that negative camber makes my wheels look broken So from this information hopefully I can get some guidance with a tire size for 15X7 or maybe a slightly different recommendation based on the ride height adjustment soon to come. I also may consider 16's but 15's prefered. lets B-serious here tho, suspension first or else you'll be at stock hight or bounching around on these ebay special "coils", don't cheap out on tires like I see soooo many ppl do. lets B-serious here tho, suspension first or else you'll be at stock hight or bounching around on these ebay special "coils", don't cheap out on tires like I see soooo many ppl do.
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OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
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“First of all, it is symmetric to absorb shock in any direction," Rozanes told From the Grapevine. "Second, selective suspension means if you drive normally on flat surfaces, there’s no suspension unless encountering an obstacle."
There are three times when you should get your steering and suspension systems inspected. Every 50,000 miles (approximately 80,000 km). As part of your annual service or any time your car is in for routine service and the steering and suspension systems are accessible. When your tyres are replaced. When your brakes are serviced. When your oil and filters are changed.
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I’m beginning my return and hopefully the next one doesn’t have this issue. Is there something on the user end that can cause this or is this something that was just wrong with the manufacturing? I put this bike together per the instructions. I rode it down my driveway and hit the brakes. When I did so the front tire instantly moved to the side and started rubbing the forks. I thought maybe I did something wrong so I read over the instructions and made the front wheel a little tighter. Still got the same result. Definitely going to try to return this thing. Just sucks I spent all that time putting it together and now I have to deal with shipping it back.
I spent about 20 minutes out with Sam on the 20″ wheels, coupled up with the Dahon folding bike, and immediately there is something special about them.
When the damper inside a MacPherson strut wears out, you can buy a replacement cartridge which — depending on type — may or may not include new parts for the strut itself.
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Design concern: Compressing the suspension changes the center of the wheel. When the wheel is also rolling this means there needs to be a ‘handoff’ between the three struts. The result will be the translation of energy in to compressing the next strut which will slow the wheel. Torquemada on May 21st, 2016 - 9:39am
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Kerbs are less of an obstacle with Loopwheels. Loopwheels reduce jolting, soften the impact of landing, and so can help manage discomfort.
So if you hit a really large bump, does the wheel bottom out and smack into the upper crown of the fork causing you to endo? thesteve4761 on May 20th, 2016 - 11:13am
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The added components don’t make the wheels all that much heavier, too, as each Loopwheel only weighs 300 grams more than a similar spoked equivalent. Because they use hubs and rims similar to standard wheels, they can be installed on any bicycle designed to take 20-inch wheels. Other sizes may come soon, although that will likely depend on how well the current size sells.
If god wanted a different wheel he wouldn’t have made them round to begin with. Louis IV was correct in closing the Patent office….all things worth being invented…were invented by the 17th century.
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Cases to consider: 1: Idle - the spring should be able to carry the rider with no deflection, other wise if u lowered the spring from the beginning making the ground to hub distance smaller than the horizontal radius, you might experience lifting. but if it can support i believe its good
“Potholes, cracks, cobbles – when you have chronic pain, you feel every vibration like a knife. Loopwheels took only a second to fit. They definitely reduce the pain of going over bumps, kerbs and cobbles and have made every trip out far more comfortable.”
We’re pretty sure there’s no need to reinvent the bicycle wheel. That, of course, won’t stop anyone from trying to and the Loopwheels definitely seem like a nice upgrade.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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The Colson Group is the largest manufacturer of caster and wheel products in the world. The company has operations in 14 countries and consists of nine major global operating units. Colson Group USA is the largest operating unit of the Colson Group, and it includes some of the most renowned brands of casters and wheels in the world: Colson, Albion, Shepherd, Jarvis, MedCaster, Pemco, Faultless and Bassick. These brands have been technological leaders in caster advances for more than 350 combined years. The drive and experience of Colson Group innovators have led to some of the most trusted, highest quality and advanced mobility solutions in today’s world.
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Why Is My Spine Vibrating
This is not to be confused with the Israeli designer Ron Arad and his Soft-Wheel invention from 2011. He’s invented, though probably not for commercial reasons, a bike wheel that will never go flat. See below.
"This amazing mobility shop has been a fabulous help and support to me since my Ehlers Danlos Syndrome started affecting my vascular system and spine making walking and standing still extremely difficult for me. My decision to use a wheelchair for the first time was a difficult one, and I literally had no clue. Craig was fabulous from first con … "
When the damper inside a MacPherson strut wears out, you can buy a replacement cartridge which — depending on type — may or may not include new parts for the strut itself.
The Loopwheel is a different beast. When you have spent your whole life with rigid spoked wheels, they may seem strange to you at first. But we believe you’ll soon love the differences of the Loopwheel. Loopwheels gives you a smoother ride wherever you goAbsorbs vibration, bumps and shocksReduces wheelchair vibrations by up to 70%Softens the impact of landing from kerbs & other dropsHelps you go more places - allowing you to go faster and further
There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them. I'm having such a tough decision on whether or not I want to get a ZR or G coupe. Keep the pics coming...maybe it'll help persuade me one way or another.
Instead of sharing a common axle, each wheel on a car with independent suspension is independently attached to the body or subframe. Different spring combinations may be used.
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