Like a regular pneumatic tire, the ASW is air-suspended, but in this case, it's not by an inflated tube. It's a full hub and wheel replacement that separates the outer tread and rim from the hub using a set of eccentrically mounted, pneumatic air cylinders.
That's perfect size, go with stock 235/40/18 or 245/40/18 will work too if you want more tire width. You can swap over the stock tires if they're the same size. I'm new here so want to ask all you all help me out really quick. I'm just wondering will this rim be okay to set up with my Hatchback Sport and what size of tire should I get with stock suspension? First Name Steve Joined Mar 10, 2018 Messages 265 Reaction score 65 Location Canada Car(s) '18 Civic EX-T
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Hi we are new to a air ride equipped motorhome and are wandering if it is ok to lift the wheels off the ground with the Jack's when leveling on those unlevel sites, the chassis is a Freightliner XC and it seems like the air bags are really stretched if the wheells and everything are pulling down on them in this situation ... We just do not want any damage to the system. Your input would be appreciated thanks The weight of the axle pulls down on the air bags but the weight of the front axle assembly is supported by the length of the shocks. When the shocks become fully extended, air bags, leaf or coil springs, that's when the front axle assembly quits moving down. I'm with everyone that doesn't like the looks of wheels in the air, but it doesn't hurt anything and I have done it. Think about this: The only way your motorcoach can roll away is if it's on the wheels. If it's up on the jacks, it can't roll. A good backhoe operator will hike the rear tires (where the brakes are) up in the air to get it up on the hydraulics where it is solid and stable, before operating. Sometimes they raise the front tires up with the bucket. Ever seen a mobile construction crane? First thing they do is raise all the tires up off the ground to get the unit level and stable before operating. I'm not saying to lift your coach that way, but it's not the big deal that some people try to make it sound like. On my Freightliner with the stiff rear end and V-Ride, if I lift one side a couple inches, the duals will come off the ground. Not a big deal because the jack won't roll.
i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!!
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We’re pretty sure there’s no need to reinvent the bicycle wheel. That, of course, won’t stop anyone from trying to and the Loopwheels definitely seem like a nice upgrade.
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OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
It does seem clear the Air Suspension Wheel is unlikely to take over as a car tire replacement any time soon. But its unique set of capabilities do seem to offer some compelling advantages in certain applicarions, and we look forward to seeing how things progress. View gallery - 9 images 5 comments Loz has been one of our most versatile contributors since 2007, and has since proven himself as a photographer, videographer, presenter, producer and podcast engineer, as well as a senior features writer. Joining the team as a motorcycle specialist, he's covered just about everything for New Atlas, concentrating lately on eVTOLs, hydrogen, energy, aviation, audiovisual, weird stuff and things that go fast. Bob Stuart January 30, 2018 07:17 AM
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Shock proof casters Material: PP wheel bonded to elastic rubber Size:100mm x 32mm ; 125mm x 35mm Load:110kg,150kg Bearing: Roller Bearing Purpose:Shock resistant casters,Shock proof casters,Industry caster wheels,trolley casters
It's unclear at this point whether you'd lose any forward motion energy due to torque flex, but that can be tuned out of the system if required in any case. It's also unclear how much a pair of wheelchair-sized ASWs would cost at this point. We assume they're not cheap compared to a regular rim and tire setup. Here's some annoyingly infomercial-style video comparing regular wheelchair wheels to an ASW setup over curbs and grassy, uneven terrain.
OK, after pouring through much of the other thread, I felt I spent so much time looking at setups that weren't relevant to what I was looking to do...which is stay on stock suspension. So this thread is dedicated to Aftermarket wheels on stock suspension. *List wheel make and model with offset and width as well as tire make/model/size. *Try to take pics showing "poke." That means refrain from turning the front wheels for the pics. Keep 'em pointed straight and try to get some shots down the side of the car that will help others make a decision. *If you've rolled, pulled fenders and/or used the slotted strut mounts for more tire/fender clearance that is ok, just let us know when you post your setup.
"Loopwheels turn a painful journey into a smooth one will recommend to all my wheelchair friends...."
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