I was gonna make a snarky remark about damping, but if that setup provides <1.5" or so of suspension on a commuter bike, it's probably a good thing. Max on April 14th, 2013 - 5:58pm
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If you have questions or do not know the proper fitment on lowered, bagged, or even stock applications - complete our quote/fitment help form so that we may make our best recommendation for what should work. In some cases, minor trimming will be needed to accommodate oversized tires or wide / high negative offset wheels. Additionally, we cannot guarantee fitment on custom drilled wheels, but should the manufacturer make a mistake - we’ll help broker a solution. Some vehicles or applications may not apply. In those cases we’ll tell you before you purchase. Wow. You must have found a really good deal. Send us a link and we’ll beat it (or at least we’ll try, every once in a while we can’t.) Our website has tens of thousands of aftermarket wheels/tires installed on vehicles with upgraded suspensions. See our gallery to get started!
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
i will have pics shortly, havn't put everything on permanantly yet, waiting a couple more weeks til spring. i have the wheels & suspension sitting in my house staring at me everyday, it's painful. but if you open this link, you will see 19x8 +40 lowered 1.5", just for reference. and honestly, i'm afraid to post pics on this site with the way people pick things apart, but i probably will anyway-give me a few weeks!!
Traditional spokes have been replaced with a new design that integrates suspension into the wheel and makes for a smoother passage over uneven surfaces.
Like many Audi models before it, the e-tron is fitted with a height adjustable air suspension. For those seeking to lower the car, this amounts largely to a software change. In most cases of an air suspended Audi, the aftermarket usually provides “piggyback” modules that adjust the suspension downward. Given the relative newness and untraditional nature of the e-tron, we weren’t aware of any options yet to be had.
Suspension travel of 3’’Light and high strength aluminum (2024)Solid design for off-airport use (tested at 4G)
The Loopwheels’ spring system between the hub and the rim cushions the rider from potholes and bumps in the road. It also reduces road noise by absorbing it, thereby reducing vibration through the frame—and into the rider’s arms and body. Because the suspension is inside the wheel, you don’t need fat tires to make the ride nicer. Instead, you can use high-pressure or puncture-resistant tires.
The first wheels are designed around the 20-inch wheels commonly used on fold-up bicycle, and Mr Pearce plans to sell bikes with the wheels fitted for £1200 in September.
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Each wheel incorporates a regular hub, with a hub brake and hub gearing. Instead of spokes, however, three looped carbon composite springs run from the hub to the rim. Whenever the wheel hits a bump in the road, the energy is absorbed by those springs.
A pair of 24″ or 25″ diameter shock-absorbing wheels. Carbon loops with reflective logos. Black anodised aluminium hub with high-quality bearings. Supplied fitted with black aluminium push rims, offset at either 19mm (wide) or 11mm (narrow) from the rim. Or for a more ergonomic experience upgrade to Gekko, Curve or Curve Tetra-Grip hand rims.
The loopwheel was designed by company founder Sam Pearce, a product designer and mechanical engineer. The spokes have been replaced by a new interior that makes it easier to go over uneven or bumpy ground and removes vibration.
Good news; the Loopwheels are already well above their Kickstarter target with 13 days still to go! They've also contacted us to say they'll be attending Naidex so we can hopefully see them then. © 2021 Created by Gordon White. Powered by Badges | Report an Issue | Terms of Service
Take the mammoth Caterpillar 797F Mining Truck (pictured above), which stands more than 25 ft (7.6 m) tall and weighs in at 1,375,000 lb (623,700 kg). Each of the big Cat's six monstrous 59/80R63 tires stands over 13 ft (4 m) tall, weighs about 12,000 lb (5,440 kg) and costs somewhere in the range of US$38,000 each.
After coming up with the design for the loopwheel, he and wife Gemma realised that it was a risky venture and they would need to prove the product worked and manufacture it themselves to get it to market.