Like a regular pneumatic tire, the ASW is air-suspended, but in this case, it's not by an inflated tube. It's a full hub and wheel replacement that separates the outer tread and rim from the hub using a set of eccentrically mounted, pneumatic air cylinders.
The fact that each shock is individually adjusted and tuned makes me wonder how difficult it would be to get them synced and the negative effects of them being out of whack with one another. Colin M on May 20th, 2016 - 10:53am nightfend on May 20th, 2016 - 10:59am
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@Michael Lau Presumably yes, since part of your energy will go into moving the hub within the wheels. But since they're springs, you'll get most of that back, so it's probably close enough to a wash to not matter much. Especially on a purely A-to-B type bike like a folder. Edison Ong April 18, 2013 06:40 AM
The Acrobat doesn't exactly "reinvent the wheel," as the cliche goes, but it does improve upon it. Eliane Rozanes, one of the Acrobat’s engineers, said it has a built-in symmetrical and selective suspension system. In layman's terms, that means it takes the bumps so you don't have to.
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First developed to smooth the ride of people confined to wheelchairs, Israeli-based SoftWheel has taken their in-wheels suspension concept and refined it for a wide of cyclists. By essentially isolating the bicycle rim from the hub with a set of three tunable shocks with hydraulic rebound damping, the Fluent bike wheel is said to deliver an unmatched level of comfort, while maintaining ride control and stability, and actually reducing energy lost when riding over obstacles and surface irregularities. Take a closer look at options for city and even e-bikes after the jump…
If you don't mind...what are the full specs of your wheels/tires? I'm just wondering because I have the X model and I know the widths and everything will be slightly different and no staggering for me. I think your setup looks great considering no drop, but I don't know how it would compare to an X model with no staggering or spacers etc.
There are various ways of attaching the wheels of the car so that they can move up and down on their springs and dampers , and do so with as little change as possible in the distance between adjacent wheels or in the near-vertical angle of the tyres to the road.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Maybe I’m wrong but wouldn’t the wheel react differently every time you hit the same obstacle depending on how the shocks are pointed? Bartthebikeman on May 20th, 2016 - 2:58pm
Though the Audi e-tron may mark just the beginning of a new electric era, we find some things simply don’t change no matter the method of propulsion. Improving upon elements like a car’s stance, and also the wheels and tires, remain some of the most effective ways to improve the aesthetic of any car… electric or otherwise.
TONBUX Most Comfortable Bicycle Seat, Bike Seat Replacement with Dual Shock Absorbing Ball Wide Bike Seat Memory Foam Bicycle Gel Seat with Mounting Wrench
Please keep comments to less than 150 words. No abusive material or spam will be published. Slowburn April 18, 2013 02:46 AM
Loopwheels' funding campaign runs on Kickstarter through May 15, 2013. Backer packages range from a single front or rear wheel to both wheels to a Dahon folding bike pre-pimped with its own set of 3-speed Loopwheels.
They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
Today, the Ford Taurus SEL — the top-of-the-line before you get into the high-performance SHO — comes standard with 18 inch wheels. Many buyers select the optional 19-inch wheels, though, which come with Goodyear Eagle RSA 255/45R19 tires. The alpha-numeric soup on the sidewall might not instantly make sense, but compared to what was previously available on the Taurus, that wheel and tire combination is massive.
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