The way the loop-ends overlap each other, it looks like that would give some lateral stability.
Designed by Jelly Products, it’s an erstwhile standard 20-inch bicycle wheel with a twist: it comes with a suspension system built into the wheel itself. Switch them in place of your bike’s standard wheels and enjoy the most stable ride you can imagine. Or, better yet, use them for your folding bike (which, usually, skips the suspension forks to save on weight and bulk) to give it a full-fledged suspension without adding much in terms of size.
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"I have used my Loopwheels since they were first launched, I’ve tried them all, but NOTHING compares with these Loopwheels, after a month or so I had no more back pain, 75% less marks..."
Take the mammoth Caterpillar 797F Mining Truck (pictured above), which stands more than 25 ft (7.6 m) tall and weighs in at 1,375,000 lb (623,700 kg). Each of the big Cat's six monstrous 59/80R63 tires stands over 13 ft (4 m) tall, weighs about 12,000 lb (5,440 kg) and costs somewhere in the range of US$38,000 each.
Please keep comments to less than 150 words. No abusive material or spam will be published. Slowburn April 18, 2013 02:46 AM
Here are a couple of pics of my 2009 G37S with stock suspension and 20" wheels. I would love to lower the front some but I am fine with the back and I don't want to get into all the other issues that come up with lowering a car (rubbing, alignment issues, etc etc).
Without these 178 people, you wouldn’t be able to buy loopwheels today. THANK YOU ALL!
it's not THAT low, but it's low...lower than recommended by this site and every wheel shop. some go as far to say that they just won't work!!
VANHAWKS VALOUR CARBON FIBER BICYCLE INCLUDES SECURITY SENSORS AND PERFORMANCE TRACKING
When you’re on uneven ground, vibrations can wear you out, making it harder to drive your chair and triggering spasms and pain. Loopwheels make travelling over bumpy ground more fun and less tiring.
Mongoose Switchback Adult Mountain Bike, 8-21 Speeds, 27.5-Inch Wheels, Aluminum Frame, Disc Brakes, Multiple Colors
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Both modeling and experimental results demonstrate several realistic scenarios in which wheel hubs experience accelerations greater than 100g, sometimes at very low vehicle speeds. This paper focuses on the experimental determination of suitable design goals for in-hub motors (wheel motors), describing the experimental test rig, experiment procedures, and experimental results from testing conducted at UT-CEM. The paper also discusses implications of these results on wheel motor design, leading to the conclusion that a realizable and feasible design goal for a combat vehicle wheel motor shock rating is 150 g's, with a 10 to 20 ms pulse width.
My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.