Wheelchair Push Rim Tape
Loop Wheel
Colored Wheelchairs

Snow Trike

We’ve found in the past that Kickstarter is a great place for finding technologies which aid independent living, from accessible board games to travel apps, so it’s definitely worth checking out the progress of this latest design. The link's are below for the Kickstarter page where you can find out more about the project and rewards scheme.

Jelly Kickstarter

Loopwheels use an off-the-shelf bicycle wheel but removes the spokes in place of a spring system between the hub and the rim for integral suspension. That suspension is made up of three carbon composite springs that act as shock absorbers with 45mm of travel, cushioning the rider for a smooth and comfortable ride. Unlike standard bike suspension systems, it provides tangential suspension, allowing your ride to absorb shocks from all directions — even from the front and rear.
We offer a wide variety of high quality replacement, maintenance and restoration car parts plus our own line of heavy duty and performance products. Our custom built online parts catalog features Genuine, OE, OES, OEM, Aftermarket and IPD branded replacement auto parts. Combine our unmatched 50+ year reputation with our outstanding customer service team and you can be confident we'll be here to serve your Volvo needs long in to the future. Not many others can match our knowledge and dedication to providing the very best customer service in the market. We have a physical location, live customer service agents you can call and extensive inventory so we can ship products to you quickly. Our customer and vehicle first approach means that your experience is our first priority. We have truly hassle-free returns and provide do-it-yourself (DIY) guides and videos for many of our products. .

Replacement Wheels For Wheelchair

Near the end of the video it shows the bike on the "rolling road" test bed, the rim is moving laterally, not good in most bike applications. wle April 18, 2013 05:17 PM
We stock a range of other push rims, not all of which are listed here. If you’re not sure which to choose, please contact us as we’ll be happy to help.

Push Rim

Most of our competitors spend a fortune on advertising and other frills. We on the other hand began our journey by creating the world’s largest gallery of vehicles with custom wheels installed. We have continued this mission of “giving people what they want” by launching Fitment Industries TV on YouTube. Instead of paying mega dollars to “entice” customers into buying our products, we simply share our knowledge and have created a community with our gallery for enthusiasts to share knowledge with each other. In turn it makes it easy for customers to know who to choose when it’s time to buy! This means we spend very little money, and only our time, and pass on all that savings to you all in our prices!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...

Mike Crehan

Have you owned this car from day 1? because that's definitely not sitting at the stock height. lol.

Loop 5 Wheels

Wheelchair Wheel Size

Wheelchair Wheels Replacement

Wheel For Wheelchair

Cardiff Triathlon

Loop 5 Wheels

Smooth Wheels

Shaking From Back Pain

Schwalbe Spicer K Guard 3

25 559 Wheelchair Tires

Pushrims

Slip Wheels

Suspension Casters

Industry leading test labs and global quality systems confirm our casters meet stringent quality standards. Our in-house capabilities ensure all designs meet or exceed industry standards (ICWM standards) to keep your products safe and mobile.

  • Slip Wheels

    "Andy Weston advised and fitted my mother's power chair with the lead OT at RNOH Stanmore in 2018. He has subsequently come to her nursing home to fit a different safety belt and we found him enormously helpful and patient. His knowledge of the most suitable equipment was extensive and he sourced and had the new chair delivered ahead of the exp … "

    × Warning! JavaScript is disabled. This site will not work properly without it. Shop By Vehicle Shop By Part Universal Parts Support Login Search shopping_cartCart Size of Wheels Number of Wheels in Set Part Number 2" / 50mm Diameter 4 9.9169 2" / 50mm Diameter 6 9.9170 2.375" Diameter 4 9.9171 2.375" Diameter 6 9.9172
    Much like their wheelchair design has made it easier and more comfortable for users to get around in an urban environment, SoftWheel hopes the Fluent wheel can do the same thing for cyclists. The way they describe how the wheel absorbs shocks claims that they are especially effective at abrupt sharp edge obstacles like riding up and down stairs. Since the rim can variably move in the direction of each impact (as opposed to a typical fork which can only telescope up and down, or a rear suspension setup which is confined to the axle path determined by its layout), it is better suited to the wide range of actual impacts your normally encounter.

  • Kickstarter Wheel

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    Found another, here's @DrRay81 on Advan GT 19x9.5 +22 and 19x10.5+32. Michelin PS4s 275/35/19 and 295/35/19: Joined Nov 18, 2019 Messages 2,080 Reaction score 1,888 Location GA Car(s) NA Found another, here's @DrRay81 on Advan GT 19x9.5 +22 and 19x10.5+32. Michelin PS4s 275/35/19 and 295/35/19:
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  • Wheels And Suspension

    Unlike suspension forks, which only work in one plane, Loopwheels provide tangential suspension—they absorb force from any direction. Loopwheels respond to head-on force in the same way as they do to a force from above or below.

    Loopwheels are designed, engineered and made in Nottinghamshire by Jelly Products Ltd. It’s a registered design with patents pending.
    I was happy with my purchase until this point. The bike looks nice and handled great. The only issue I noticed before this was that the left gear (I’m no bike expert, sorry if if that’s not the correct term) sort of made a weird noise when switching between one of the three settings (the chain sort of took a while to set correctly). The right gear worked flawlessly.

  • Carbon Black Wheelchair Price

    Spring shock absorber caster Wheel Material:PP core,Nylon wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø203 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing

    To our aesthetic, the e-tron’s resulting ride height is quite improved, garnering many more comments from other Audi owners at enthusiast events. Though the general car market may like crossovers, the more Avant-like stance of our long roof e-tron definitely resonates amongst car people.
    Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set and Car - £41.25 Free click & collect @ Argos The Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set is a thrilling playset that gives kids the opportunity to test their Hot Wheels vehicles against each other! The set features a 71cm wide loop track which is perfect to race Hot Wheels cars. Kids can use the slam launcher to see how many vehicles can run at once and have nail-biting near-misses before some awesome crashes start to happen. One Hot Wheels racecar is included to get the excitement started! (Additional cars sold separately. ) Colours and decorations may vary.

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Carry Wheels

On smooth terrain The Acrobat’sTM innovative Adaptive RigidityTM technology keeps the wheel’s 3 shocks perfectly rigid like spokes. When encountering a bumpy surface, they automatically transform into soft and responsive shocks. With less energy lost to frame vibration and reduced impact to the rider’s body, The AcrobatTM offers a superior riding experience.

Shock Wheel

'I suddenly wondered why the wheel couldn't have its own suspension, and quickly drew the idea down - and then did nothing about it for two years.

Cannondale Hooligan Review

Impact and vibration are a common cause of discomfort for many wheelchair users and we are excited to be spreading awareness of such an innovative brand who are tackling this issue head on.

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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...

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