It will never be perfect, there will always be slight compromise. Now, we have three to contend with. Tony on May 21st, 2016 - 1:24am
Making shock-absorbing wheels for bikes, trikes and wheelchairs, to help you go more places, more comfortably and more easily.
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They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
ew springs without shocks, what good is that? and shocks, they slow you down a lot when you dont; need them ew again just something else to cost more, add weight and subtract speed no thanks plus when you stop the bike will dive Michael Crumpton April 18, 2013 05:18 PM
Studies have shown that wheelchair users are exposed to levels of vibration that are considered unsafe and that this can affect health and life quality.
Bold, beautiful and precision-engineered to last. The iconic in-wheel shock absorbers offer a truly unique style. Whether made from aluminum, magnesium or carbon fiber, SoftWheels are guaranteed to turn heads day or night.
Give thanks, be humble23rd May 2018Getting started22nd May 2018LeJogLe, 6 years later21st May 2018#BeMoreMike – thoughts on a Welsh ride12th April 2017Early morning mountains in Geneva12th April 2017
In the 20 minutes I was riding them, I had a blast. It really was as simple as that, they where a real hoot to ride.
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Monitor instantaneous horsepower readings, steering angle measurements, personal records and more—all in a customizable dashboard.
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
Annual or bi-annual inspections of your steering and suspension systems should include: Inspecting your shocks for leaks, cracks or other damage; Looking for vehicle bounce, nose dives, squats or rolls; Spinning the tyres manually to see if there is any wobble, imbalance or uneven tyre wear; Checking for leakage from any of the steering components; Ensuring the tension in the power steering pump belt is correct; Bouncing the car to see if your shocks or struts are functioning correctly. Who should inspect your steering and suspension systems?
I'm looking to buy Enkei RPF1's. I am undecided if I should go with the 17 or 18 inch size for stock suspension. I am driving a coupe and have always felt the RPF1 visually looks 2 sizes smaller than they actually are, but I don't want to install coilovers yet - maybe in a few years, but not now. First Name Jay Joined Mar 18, 2018 Messages 9 Reaction score 3 Location Idaho Car(s) 2016 Honda Civic
They deliver such a smooth ride it is like my world has suddenly become a much flatter place!
I don’t think it would affect the brake track. The wheel would flex on the bottom but would return to original shape and diameter when it rolled far enough to not be in contact with the ground. If it did not return to original shape or size after the flex the ride would be really crappy. iperov on April 14th, 2013 - 3:40pm Ck on April 14th, 2013 - 3:46pm comrade on April 14th, 2013 - 4:14pm seramik on April 14th, 2013 - 4:50pm MMyers on April 14th, 2013 - 5:39pm
But the negatives are pretty significant, especially in and around Boston, where our roads are rapidly deteriorating, and potholes are a regular occurrence.