There are two basic types of vehicle suspensions: independent and solid axel. The main difference between these two is that both right and left wheels attached to the same beam i.e. solid axle, while independent suspensions make provision for one wheel to go up or down without affecting the other wheel.
A picture of the very incomplete gantry as it currently is, to give a better idea of what I'm up to: < > The only other way to get wheels to turn is either roll them freely unbound to anything, or attach them to a rotor. You can adjust the suspension settings to make them ridged, and you can use vertically oriented suspensions to prevent side wobble as if it was on rails. Wheels lack any form of propulsion on their own. They also lack any form of innate rotation ability. They're just cylindrical objects, exactly as they are in the real world (try welding a wheel directly to something sometime and see how well it spins). You need to provide an axle to them, and propulsion should you require it as well.
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On the plus side, it's a really nice looking bike... very frustrated with it though....
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Impact and vibration are a common cause of discomfort for many wheelchair users and we are excited to be spreading awareness of such an innovative brand who are tackling this issue head on.
I find it difficult to credit the coach moving down the hill with 20,000 - 40,000 lbs of motorhome pressing the jack pads into the earth. That assumes the jacks are rated for the full coach weight and don't break under the load. My 36,000 lb coach had 4 x 16,000 lb jacks, so I wasn't too worried. Back in the day some coaches had poor frame rigidity, especially up front, so the front cap and windshield frame would often twist if the front wheels came off the ground. My '96 Southwind (F53 chassis) was like that and I avoided ever lifting the front to even barely touching cause the windshield would start to move. My 2002 W22 chassis coach didn't seem to have any problem with that but I was still careful. My 2004 DP was stable as a mountain no matter how much it was jacked. Spent many a summer at my brothers home in SW PA with wheels off the ground. He lives on a hill side and the 2012 Tour never had a problem.
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There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them. I'm having such a tough decision on whether or not I want to get a ZR or G coupe. Keep the pics coming...maybe it'll help persuade me one way or another.
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For me, base on this design, as long as you can maintain the hub to be: ground to hub distance would always be greater than the hub to the horizontal distance (radius) to the rim. then you should be fine.
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Curve & Curve L are a high quality, ergonomic push rim designed and made in Germany. These are available in two sizes: ‘Curve L’ for a larger hand, or ‘Curve’ for smaller hands. Designed for wheelchair users with complete hand function.
My wheels are staggered, TSW Mugello 20" wheels, no spacers, and am running Toyo Proxes TS tires, 245-35z fronts and 285-30z rears. Not sure how they would be for an X. Hope the info helps! I think 20" on stock is just fine. The ability to adjust the height is the main reason to go with coilover? Well after reading all this I think I will go with the General G-MAX AS-03 245/35/20 at all four corners (since I have an X model) and the 20" Enkei's seen here. Should look good on my moonlight white. I plan to do this in spring so I'll post pics when it's done if anyone still cares at that point. Attached Thumbnails Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information - Top Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion Hey guys, I have a little project i'm starting up with my EJ2 and I have a hard time figuring out which is better to come first wheels or springs. I have decided to go springs over a full coilover due to budget and I dont really plan on changing height afterwards and I also don't hit tracks. That being said which would be better coming first? The way I see it, lowering the suspension first gives me an idea of wheel sizes I can manage without scrubbing, but at the same time rims/tires offers the same results in a way (atleast how I see it). However, I could be very wrong so I am looking for some input on the better way to go about it. Again, keep in mind I am not getting full coilovers, I would consider coilover sleeves that fit over the strut but as previously stated i'm not really looking to constantly change ride height all the time. It's basically going to be a one and done type deal. Inputs would be greatly appreciated! Like Both are in decent shape, but im talking rims and tires not just tires. I'm trying to figure which way would be the best way to get a stance started.