EnglishČeštinaDeutschEnglishEspañolFrançaisMagyarItaliano日本語한국어PolskiPortuguêsPусский简体中文繁體中文 Standard Loop Handle Straight Back Frame, No Logo Channel, No Red Striping Recessed Heel w/Cutouts, Cast 18″ x 7 1/2″ Nose Plate 4 Ply Pneumatic, 10″ x 3 1/2″ Wheels 500 lbs. Capacity Overall Height: 50″ SKU: A1-B10-CA2-D5 Categories: 2-Wheeled, Complete Hand Trucks Tags: 10" wheel, aluminum, bp manufacturing, extruded, hand truck, liberator, loop handle, pnuematic wheel Description Additional information Resources Downloads Reviews (0) Description Wheels – Highest Quality with up to a 3 Year Warranty Extruded Axle Brackets – Lifetime Warranty Axle – 91,000 PSI Tensile Steel Nose Plate – Extruded Aluminum for Longer Life Frame – 600 lbs. Capacity and Available with Industry Exclusive Powder Coat Option Cross Members – Four Sided Ribbed Construction Rivets – 700 lbs. Aircraft Grade Handles – Ergonomically Designed in Several Styles, Some of Which Are Welded and Heat Treated for Extra Strength Logo Channel – For Company Personalization Parts Are Interchangeable with Most Competitors’ Models Additional information Weight 25.5 lbs Dimensions 50 × 21.5 × 18.5 in Warranty/Terms & Conditions Warranty Terms & Conditions AS9100 Terms & Conditions Maintenance Schedule
From an aesthetics point of view they are gorgeous to look at, but from riding them it is obvious that Sam and Gemma have created something special. Riding 20″ slicks is not normally the most fun way to enjoy the farm tracks of the UK, but with the Loopwheels it suddenly changed, the rough buzz disappeared and you find yourself enjoying the ride rather than worrying about your wheels and the bike bouncing everywhere!

"Loopwheels turn a painful journey into a smooth one will recommend to all my wheelchair friends...."
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...