Rim and Wheel Works has a proprietary process that can straighten a number of wheel issues, from a "center bend" in which the wheel has actually twisted from impact, to TIG welding wheels that have cracked, then straightening the wheels after they've been welded. For wheels that have experienced slight damage, Rim and Wheel Works can repair them for between $110 to $135 for wheels up to 19 inches, and rising upward from there as the wheel gets larger.
[Hot Item] Swivel sandwich casters, M59SP-4''/5'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
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With scores of iterations, and hundreds of man-hours invested in the final product they are undeniably good-looking wheels, at first glance (and second glance, and then just staring at them) they wouldn’t appear out of place on a BMW concept car – but this isn’t pie-in-the-sky, these wheels are here and, thanks to their Kickstarter success, very much NOW!
Seconding how compression and rebound get adjusted… Also how will it handle/shed mud? looks like lots of nooks and cranies for mud and debris to hide and cling… I don’t even want to start thinking about what kind of aero properties these bad boys have, … High on my list to try, if I every had the opportunity (’cause dang I’m curious) but low on a buy until the applications for this type of wheel are nailed down. Watchtower on April 14th, 2013 - 8:16pm
We’re proud to be a British manufacturer of a world-class innovation in wheel technology.
The only other way to get wheels to turn is either roll them freely unbound to anything, or attach them to a rotor. You can adjust the suspension settings to make them ridged, and you can use vertically oriented suspensions to prevent side wobble as if it was on rails.
Note: when sorting by date, 'descending order' will show the newest results first. Contains unread posts Contains no unread posts Hot thread with unread posts Hot thread with no unread posts Thread is closed You have posted in this thread You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On [VIDEO] code is On HTML code is Off -- Mirage Forum Desktop Style (full-featured) -- Mirage Forum Mobile Style Contact Us MirageForum.com - Mitsubishi Mirage / Space Star / Attrage / Dodge Attitude Forum and Owners Club Archive Top Threads Google Threads Posts Advanced View First Unread Thread Tools Search this Thread Log In | Register By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community > AcuraZine TL/TLX Community > Second Generation TL (1999-2003) > 2G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension By logging into your account, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy, and to the use of cookies as described therein. i have already bought my rims, i havent put them on yet, should change my suspension first to like the look when its stock, or should i put my rims and change my suspension accordingly Reply Like how much you should lower the car depends on the rims. post some pics of the rims first. also depends on how much you drive in the snow, which i assume you do quite a bit living in canada. maybe some other members have some first hand experience of driving in the snow with a lowered car? I'd change suspension first, then wheels.... but to each their own... ultimately it's up to you. you should always drop first... then buy the rims to fit accordingly... also, putting rims on a stock height car (i know somebody will be butt hurt over this) yeah dont make the same mistake i did... i totally regret getting rims 1st =/ ok .. but if i change my suspension accordingly to my 16 inch stock rims, then put on 19'zz i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!! in my situation, i really wanted a certain wheel which happened to have a low offset, so i can't lower it too much. i am also up against winter in new england, and shitty roads. so i knew i wasn't lowering too much, i just want to close the wheel gap. so i got the wheels i wanted, which are 19x8 +40 w/ 235/35 tires, learned i have about 2" in the rear and 3" up front to work with, and from there purchased the eibach pro-system-plus which will give me exactly what i'm looking for...improved handling, very little gap in the wheel well, and a lower than stock stance....done & done!! buddy thanks a million, i think u just answered my question, i have the same width rims and tires. i was wondering how much room i might have in order to figure the suspension.
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The spring system between the hub and the rim of the wheel cushions the user from bumps and potholes in the road. The springs absorb road noise, reducing vibration through the frame and into the rider’s arms and body. High-pressure or puncture-resistant tyres can be used.
UnusedIn its original packaging (with the tags)In a resaleable conditionWith its proof of purchaseYou’ll also need to return any free items that came with the product.
Maybe I’m wrong but wouldn’t the wheel react differently every time you hit the same obstacle depending on how the shocks are pointed? Bartthebikeman on May 20th, 2016 - 2:58pm
In My case, I'm building a gantry with multiple axis of movement, as a means of making construction easier (the gantry would be used to, say, grab a WIP and lift, shift, and rotate it so I could get to otherwise inaccessible sections of the WIP).
There are various ways of attaching the wheels of the car so that they can move up and down on their springs and dampers , and do so with as little change as possible in the distance between adjacent wheels or in the near-vertical angle of the tyres to the road.