humm … I was thinking: if I bought the movement, it would be the same as the mats of a War Tank. I’m not sure. Tom on September 14th, 2020 - 4:08pm
Maybe I’m wrong but wouldn’t the wheel react differently every time you hit the same obstacle depending on how the shocks are pointed? Bartthebikeman on May 20th, 2016 - 2:58pm
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As a comparison, consider the 1995 Corvette ZR-1, an ultra-high performance, 405 horsepower Corvette of which 527 units were sold. It came equipped with 17-inch wheels and tires. The front tires were 275/45R17s, meaning they were three-quarters of an inch thicker, had the same height sidewall, but were smaller than the Taurus by two inches in diameter.
Surprised at the baseless negativity this morning. Wait, no, I’m not. Maybe it’s not the simplest suspension solution, but a cool alternative when everything else is homogenizing. bazookasean on May 20th, 2016 - 9:48am
There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them. I'm having such a tough decision on whether or not I want to get a ZR or G coupe. Keep the pics coming...maybe it'll help persuade me one way or another.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
We have made the difficult decision to postpone the 2021 Recumbent Cycle-Con. With the current surge in Covid cases, and so many unknowns about what may happen in the next two months, postponing seems like the most responsible thing to do at this point in time.
See how many cars you can race around the track before some awesome crashes happen! (Additional cars sold separately).
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A Kickstarter project has already raised £48,000, exceeding the £40,000 target needed to get production started, and Mr Pearce, who is developing the wheel with his wife Gemma, admitted he was stunned by the response.
Sandwich castor Material: PP wheel bonded to elastic rubber Size:100mm x 32mm ; 125mm x 35mm Load:110kg,150kg Bearing: Roller Bearing Purpose:Shock resistant casters,Shock proof casters,Industry caster wheels,trolley casters
Kitplanes Magazine: Your Homebuilt Aircraft Authority. We cover topics relevant to anyone who has ever dreamed of building or owning a homebuilt experimental aircraft. Selecting the right build location, having a solid plan and making a realistic budget are just a few of the things you can do to keep your project on track. dan CheckowayMeet Checkoway for a cup of coffee and some peach cobbler at Flos... Beyerdnamic offers a new headset, two new Cub kits are approved by FAA, and the portable AvMap is updated. This month builder Bob Fritz searches for a better alternative to last-century circuit technology for his panel and finds it in a Polyfuse.
Rigid sandwich casters Material: PP wheel bonded to elastic rubber Size:100mm x 32mm ; 125mm x 35mm Load:110kg,150kg Bearing: Roller Bearing Purpose:Shock resistant casters,Shock proof casters,Industry caster wheels,trolley casters
item 5 Hot Wheels New Loop Track Free Shipping Loop Builder 5 -Hot Wheels New Loop Track Free Shipping Loop Builder
A Kickstarter project has already raised £48,000, exceeding the £40,000 target needed to get production started, and Mr Pearce, who is developing the wheel with his wife Gemma, admitted he was stunned by the response.