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In My case, I'm building a gantry with multiple axis of movement, as a means of making construction easier (the gantry would be used to, say, grab a WIP and lift, shift, and rotate it so I could get to otherwise inaccessible sections of the WIP).
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Hey kids, here's a surefire way to make your parents construct an advent calendar counting down the days until you go back to school next fall. The Turbospoke system, a battery-free, pedal-powered child's dream, fits...
[Hot Item] Rigid sandwich casters, M59R-4''/5'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
That’s why you don’t want suspension between the ground and your hubs. Plus, many, many other reasons. potbellyjoe on May 20th, 2016 - 11:27pm
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Today, the Ford Taurus SEL — the top-of-the-line before you get into the high-performance SHO — comes standard with 18 inch wheels. Many buyers select the optional 19-inch wheels, though, which come with Goodyear Eagle RSA 255/45R19 tires. The alpha-numeric soup on the sidewall might not instantly make sense, but compared to what was previously available on the Taurus, that wheel and tire combination is massive.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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[Hot Item] Spring damping caster wheels, SA61SP-4''/5''/6''/8'', Caster Wheels, China, Factory, Suppliers, Manufacturers
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Fittings, unless noted, are made from hot-rolled, pickled and oiled steel plates, bar, strip or coil, and conform to one or more of the following specifications: ASTM specifications A575, A576, A635, A1011 SS GR 33, A1011 HSLAS GR 45 or A36. All fittings meet or exceed physical properties of ASTM A1011 GR 33. The pickling of the steel produces a smooth surface free from scale. Many fittings are also available in stainless steel, aluminum and fiberglass. Consult factory for ordering information. Green Powder Coat (GR), conforming to commercial standards for Powder Coating Electro-galvanized (EG), conforming to ASTM B633 Type III SC1 Hot-dipped galvanized (HG), conforming to ASTM A123 or A153 Plain (PL) Unistrut Defender (DF), conforming to ASTM A1059 or A1046
item 2 Hot Wheels - New - HT Loop Track - US Stock - Free Shipping 2 -Hot Wheels - New - HT Loop Track - US Stock - Free Shipping
But some damage simply can't be repaired. The replacement cost can run into the thousands. Ames estimates that her shop welds approximately 250 to 500 seriously damaged wheels a year, indicating just how serious the problem is in this region.
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Rear Loopwheels are about twice as stiff as front installations, and wheels can be used both separately with a spoked wheel, or as a set, plus as the lone form of bike suspension, or in addition to suspension forks. At only around 0.7 pounds heavier than spoked equivalents, Loopwheels make for particularly appealing add-ons to folding bikes, most of which don't bother with suspension systems due to the weight and bulk they pile on.
Like a regular pneumatic tire, the ASW is air-suspended, but in this case, it's not by an inflated tube. It's a full hub and wheel replacement that separates the outer tread and rim from the hub using a set of eccentrically mounted, pneumatic air cylinders.