Heavy duty shock absorbing casters Wheel Material:PP core,Nylon wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø203 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing
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Loopwheels have developed a robust wheel with world-class suspension that works at higher speeds, for use with power attachments. The springs utilise hi-tech carbon composite materials and are available in 2 spring strengths (Regular and Stiff), which will allow customers to get the best comfort and health protection for their weight and the typical activities that they undertake. Weighing under 3lbs (1.36kg) per wheel, and removing much more vibration than any other brand of a wheel, it is the definitive wheel if you love travelling faster on tracks and off-road. Made in England Loopwheels are vibration reducing wheels. Integral suspension gives you a smoother ride.
Set in the Nottinghamshire countryside, Loopwheels HQ is surrounded by rutted fields, forests and coarse roads – nigh-on the perfect environment to test out suspension wheels!
There are times that even though we have this issue or any other concern, simply email us immediately with all the specifics by replying to the last email we sent you. This will make it easy to locate your order and get you going down the road again smoothly. Same for any warranty questions or general concerns. We are here to work through it together and make your custom build enjoyable.
Affiliated: The University of Texas at Austin Center for Electromechanics
Our company is operated by industry professionals with more than 35 years of direct experience in providing customers with all types of specialty wheelchairs. We have grown from typical wheelchair accessory equipment, to a full line of wheelchairs made by Quickie.
We also have tens of thousands of wheels you can filter using the year, make, model and suspension of your vehicle. Check both out and let your imagination take over.
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You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
No new devices or components shall be allowed that deviate from accepted standards & practices.
The first 3 digits of the serial number will help you determine which Netti wheelchair you have. Videos Testimonial David Testimonial Helen Loopwheel presentation - Wheels with integral suspension and up to 70% less vibration Downloads Main catalogues Spanish Main catalogue English Brochure Loopwheels Netti 4U CE Plus Netti 4U CED Netti 4U CED XL Netti III Netti III HD
All parts drawings illustrate only one application of each fitting. In most cases many other applications are possible. The channels shown in the illustrations are P1000, 15⁄8" square, except where noted otherwise. All 9⁄16" diameter holes use 1⁄2" x 15⁄16" hex head cap screws and 1⁄2" nuts – P1010, P3010, P4010 or P5510 – depending on the channel used. Nuts and bolts are not included with the fitting and must be ordered separately.
Worn, weak, or bad shocks and struts can also affect your vehicle stopping distance by up to 10 feet. Furthermore, they place excessive pressure on additional suspension components such as your upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings.
Nina Paley follows with her experience buying and upgrading a used Calfee Stiletto.
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