In addition to their solutions for wheelchairs and (Yes!) cars, SoftWheel has three versions for bikes. The premium wheelset is the disc brake Fluent HD setup designed for all around and even off-road riding, and available with either 27.5 or 29″ carbon rims. Its 3 shocks use an adjustable preload gas spring and hydraulic damping for 40mm of shock stroke. That isn’t the same as wheel travel due to the orientation of the shocks, so it’s not exactly clear how that translates to rim movement or really hoe it would compare to traditional suspension travel.
A pair of shock-absorbing wheels for wheelchairs with integral suspension, designed to help you push over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths, with less effort. The carbon leaf springs give you extra power to get up or down kerbs/curbs. They’re wonderfully comfortable over cobblestones, and potholes needn’t be a problem any more!
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Inspecting your steering and suspension systems requires a range of specific tools and specialist technical knowledge. As these systems are critical to your safety, it is vital that these safety inspections and repairs are carried out by a certified technician if they are beyond your expertise level and available tools.
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From an exclusive switch bank, TRX adapts at your command with performance-tuned drive modes for on- and off-road excursions.
Design concern: Compressing the suspension changes the center of the wheel. When the wheel is also rolling this means there needs to be a ‘handoff’ between the three struts. The result will be the translation of energy in to compressing the next strut which will slow the wheel. Torquemada on May 21st, 2016 - 9:39am
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Wheelchair design has evolved in recent years but users can still find it demanding to propel themselves. That can be especially difficult and uncomfortable on rough surfaces such as cobbles and paving stones.
2.1: Humps - if u roll over a hump, den the shock can make the hub offset.but if it maintain with the situation i wrote on top. then you'll have the case o rolling in a "something like a smaller wheel since the radius reduced" but will be fine, then after the humps, the wheels would recover the shape. here you'll still good
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If you don't mind...what are the full specs of your wheels/tires? I'm just wondering because I have the X model and I know the widths and everything will be slightly different and no staggering for me. I think your setup looks great considering no drop, but I don't know how it would compare to an X model with no staggering or spacers etc.
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Loopwheels are an innovative approach to wheelchair suspension and shock absorption.
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Worn, weak, or bad shocks and struts can also affect your vehicle stopping distance by up to 10 feet. Furthermore, they place excessive pressure on additional suspension components such as your upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings.
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PU wear-resistant flash wheel, high elasticity, non-slip, abrasion resistant, quiet and smooth, no damage to the floor, durable.
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A pair of shock absorbing loopwheels with integral suspension,to help you push over uneven streets, rough tracks, grass and gravel paths with less effort. The carbon springs in these wheels give you e...
Most of our competitors spend a fortune on advertising and other frills. We on the other hand began our journey by creating the world’s largest gallery of vehicles with custom wheels installed. We have continued this mission of “giving people what they want” by launching Fitment Industries TV on YouTube. Instead of paying mega dollars to “entice” customers into buying our products, we simply share our knowledge and have created a community with our gallery for enthusiasts to share knowledge with each other. In turn it makes it easy for customers to know who to choose when it’s time to buy! This means we spend very little money, and only our time, and pass on all that savings to you all in our prices!
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Full-suspension mountain bikes just don’t cut it for designer Hojun Lee. So he created a solution within the wheels. In place of standard spokes are three sets of shock absorbing coils in his concept renderings.
I actually really like this design. I’m sure it’s heavy, but it also seems to keep lateral flex in check, and the idea of the suspension movement being able to travel in any direction necessary is fantastic. Dsand on May 20th, 2016 - 8:49am
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
When taking on dunes, this off-road truck reduces shift times by 68%, sets its suspension on full damping and allows for moderate oversteer to impart maximum fun.
Designed by Jelly Products, it’s an erstwhile standard 20-inch bicycle wheel with a twist: it comes with a suspension system built into the wheel itself. Switch them in place of your bike’s standard wheels and enjoy the most stable ride you can imagine. Or, better yet, use them for your folding bike (which, usually, skips the suspension forks to save on weight and bulk) to give it a full-fledged suspension without adding much in terms of size.
Scooter Tire - Delaman Rear Wheel Tire Disc Brake Tyre for Xiaomi Mijia M365 Electric Scooter Pushrims
I love it when my headtube angle steepens and my wheelbase shortens when I hit an obstacle. (deleted) TheKaiser on May 20th, 2016 - 12:16pm
Most of our competitors spend a fortune on advertising and other frills. We on the other hand began our journey by creating the world’s largest gallery of vehicles with custom wheels installed. We have continued this mission of “giving people what they want” by launching Fitment Industries TV on YouTube. Instead of paying mega dollars to “entice” customers into buying our products, we simply share our knowledge and have created a community with our gallery for enthusiasts to share knowledge with each other. In turn it makes it easy for customers to know who to choose when it’s time to buy! This means we spend very little money, and only our time, and pass on all that savings to you all in our prices!
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looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? I think so. The minor hand pull I did front and rear was only for aesthetics. The rear wheels definitely gain a lot of neg camber when compressed so shouldn't be an issue there and the front should be fine as well. What you may want to take into account is the "rim protector" on certain tires is fairly aggressive on some (Continental Extreme Contact Sport) but not existent on others (Hankook V12 Evo2). If any amount of poke bothers you, then try to look at pictures of wheels and look for that. But I would again say that is more for aesthetics. But I would prob look into removing the locating pin on the upper strut mount up front first and adding in that little bit of neg camber for more clearance first.
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On front wheels, the whole strut swivels to allow steering. Pivoted arms extend inward and forward to the frame in order to keep the wheel upright and resist accelerating and braking forces .
Symptoms that tell you when components of your suspension may need to be looked at sooner include: The job of suspension system is to stop you rocking and rolling when you are driving and though the replacement of these components can be expensive they are critical to the stability, safety and ride comfort of your vehicle and should not be overlooked.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
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Within 20 metres you notice how smooth the ride is, looking down and you see that its not fresh tarmac, rather it’s a country road, yet the ride gives no indication of the road surface, its just smooth – you are feeling the road rather than the grotty surface.
I was happy with my purchase until this point. The bike looks nice and handled great. The only issue I noticed before this was that the left gear (I’m no bike expert, sorry if if that’s not the correct term) sort of made a weird noise when switching between one of the three settings (the chain sort of took a while to set correctly). The right gear worked flawlessly.
This causes the hub to momentarily dip down within the wheel by up to 45 millimeters, so it’s actually a bit off-center until the springs flex back into their regular state. For this reason, the wheels will only work on bikes that already have sufficient space between the fork/frame and the tire – otherwise the bike would be hitting its own tires when the springs compressed.
I started to remove the bike and it came out easily. I began removing the padding and cutting zip ties. Everything looked great although I was a bit concerned as there were no instructions included. Upon further unpacking, I could easily see there were minor steps to assembly which became self explanatory. I screwed in the right peddle and a small bearing fell into my hand. I called the number on the bike and explained the situation. In under 10 mins, a new peddle was on its way free of charge. I completed the assembly and took it for a test drive. The bike felt solid and drove like a champ! This is going to be a fun bike to use on the trails!! Bike arrived yesterday, so I put it together last night, and attempted to ride it. The gears don't change properly, and the chain constantly runs on the chain guard. Tries to adjust the gears, but to no avail. I got it close but either the chain runs while pedalling l, or the gears don't move to the next sprocket when the trigger is pulled... I'm going to try again tonight after work, bit I'd like to talk to the seller a out this issue.... a brand new bike out of the box should change gears.... I think.
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This item: VGEBY Scooter Wheel Hub Tyre, Shock-Absorbing Anti-Explosion Honeycomb Electric Scooter Rear Tire Wheel Replacement Set Compatible with Mijia M365 Electric Scooter
Loopwheels have been specially designed to help wheelchair users get around more easily and with more comfort. The springs give you extra power to get up kerbs, and reduce jolting as you come down. This gives a much smoother ride than standard wheels, wherever you go. Select Why choose This? Does it fit? Videos Downloads Items to Order Filter by Wheelchair Pos. Description Material Size Unit Item no. Price Loopwheels Classics Pneumatic 24'' Piece 24W12BKBANGY €975.00 Why choose This?
Brownfield was formed with a focus on supporting the working assets of the mining sector and has been integrated into three key services offerings specifically focussed on supporting OTR truck fleets: tyres and rims, monitoring systems and associated products, engineering services and inspection and maintenance services. Brownfield has a significant heavy maintenance background in the mining sector and brings strong strategic partnerships to make sure the customer gets the latest technology and production or maintenance benefits. With four facilities strategically positioned in the Queensland’s Bowen & Surat Basin, New South Wales’ Hunter Valley & Perth in Western Australia, Brownfield services Australia’s premier mining locations.
The £600 wheel is set to go on sale in September following a hugely successful Kickstarter campaign to raise money for the project.
Jelly Products was started in 2006 by Sam for design work for other companies and to develop his own intellectual property.
