The Hovertrax has no learning curve and requires no skills to use, which is good because you can bet that if I'm too lazy to walk myself down the street or hallway, I am definitely too lazy to learn how to use a complex...
Hi we are new to a air ride equipped motorhome and are wandering if it is ok to lift the wheels off the ground with the Jack's when leveling on those unlevel sites, the chassis is a Freightliner XC and it seems like the air bags are really stretched if the wheells and everything are pulling down on them in this situation ... We just do not want any damage to the system. Your input would be appreciated thanks The weight of the axle pulls down on the air bags but the weight of the front axle assembly is supported by the length of the shocks. When the shocks become fully extended, air bags, leaf or coil springs, that's when the front axle assembly quits moving down. I'm with everyone that doesn't like the looks of wheels in the air, but it doesn't hurt anything and I have done it. Think about this: The only way your motorcoach can roll away is if it's on the wheels. If it's up on the jacks, it can't roll. A good backhoe operator will hike the rear tires (where the brakes are) up in the air to get it up on the hydraulics where it is solid and stable, before operating. Sometimes they raise the front tires up with the bucket. Ever seen a mobile construction crane? First thing they do is raise all the tires up off the ground to get the unit level and stable before operating. I'm not saying to lift your coach that way, but it's not the big deal that some people try to make it sound like. On my Freightliner with the stiff rear end and V-Ride, if I lift one side a couple inches, the duals will come off the ground. Not a big deal because the jack won't roll.
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looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? looking to get the same size and offset wheel and tires for stock Si (not planning to lower), will it work without rolling fenders? I think so. The minor hand pull I did front and rear was only for aesthetics. The rear wheels definitely gain a lot of neg camber when compressed so shouldn't be an issue there and the front should be fine as well. What you may want to take into account is the "rim protector" on certain tires is fairly aggressive on some (Continental Extreme Contact Sport) but not existent on others (Hankook V12 Evo2). If any amount of poke bothers you, then try to look at pictures of wheels and look for that. But I would again say that is more for aesthetics. But I would prob look into removing the locating pin on the upper strut mount up front first and adding in that little bit of neg camber for more clearance first.
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Loopwheels reduce the level of vibration—“road noise”—through the chair frame and up into the arms, wrists and shoulders.
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I bought these for my two year old grandson who loves everything cars. I’m sure he’ll love them.
Loopwheels are different from spoked wheels. They look, feel and perform differently. You will be used to a wheel being a rigid thing, Loopwheels have flexibility in them in order to provide vibration reduction. The hub moves within the rim as the springs flex. The whole wheel acts as a flexible moving system which constantly adjusts to the load it carries and the obstacles it encounters.
This tri-shock wheel concept could, conceivably, make singletrack and downhill even less jarring. But with every bump that’s softened, there’s a little more energy that’s drained from the ride itself.
Trying to let people know that we are more than just spokes ‘n’ wheels. | 23 Things That People In Wheelchairs Have To Cope With
The big limitation that I can see, is that if there is any deflection when the rider gets on the bike, that means that the rider is essentially pedaling uphill all the time (Because he has to compress the springs as he moves forward). The other problem is that unless the springs are precisely calibrated to the riders weight this will really destroy the rolling efficiency of the bicycle. Malcolm Jacks May 23, 2020 03:09 AM
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We put up with a lot from our pneumatic tires, from punctures and blowouts, to slashings and the certainty of relatively frequent, inconvenient replacements and giant piles of waste rubber. The current technology seems well overdue for a revolutionary overhaul, if you'll pardon the pun, and yet despite dozens of fascinating attempts to reinvent the wheel, nothing seems to have found traction yet. Boy, I'm on a roll here.
When taking on dunes, this off-road truck reduces shift times by 68%, sets its suspension on full damping and allows for moderate oversteer to impart maximum fun.
I might eventually drop it. You have remember though, the roadsters sit atleast a half inch lower than the coupes to begin with (stock). Here's mine on 19's. I'll probably cut down the spring seats to level it up a bit in the rear. Use a slightly taller tire. That helps alot. Mine are 275/35/19 and 285/35/19 and I love the way it looks on the stock suspension. Last edited by Firehawk; 02-26-2007 at 03:34 AM. with my roadster, i went from Eibach, to Hotchkis, and now waiting for Tein Htech to come in. I think Htech will be the perfect drop for me, LOL Even with 35 sidewall tires, the gap in stock suspension is horrible. There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them.