DudeIWantThat.com. © 2021 All rights reserved | Home | Privacy Policy | Copyright Policy Health & Wellbeing Outdoors Tiny Houses Architecture Around the Home Good Thinking Holiday Destinations View all LIFESTYLE categories Energy Medical Space Materials Biology Environment Physics View all SCIENCE categories Photography Military Mobile Technology Games Drones Home Entertainment Deals View all TECHNOLOGY categories Automotive Aircraft Bicycles Motorcycles Marine Urban Transport View all TRANSPORT categories Search Query Submit Search Loopwheels put a spring in your cycling Facebook Twitter Flipboard LinkedIn
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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When I refer to this trike as such, the word “ultimate” seems to annoy some people. They ask questions, such as “Where do you get off, calling this the ‘Ultimate Sprint’?” They ask upon what do I base that description, isn’t it just a matter of opinion, and so on. When I finally get the chance to just say: this is the trike that ICE put in its “Ultimate Collection”, they just look momentarily lost for a comment, then eventually just nod. And now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s look at this trike, OK? Vinyl Graphics from the Flaming Eyeball Posted on July 17, 2020 by Larry Varney
i think it depends on what your unique situation is. if there are rims you really like, buy them and work around it. plus, if your facing winter every year, you do not want to be dropped too much, you'll be sliding all over since you will have a lower center of gravity and have more of a grip demand on your tires. if you drop it three inches, now you need to stick with a really high offset, so that will limit your wheel choices. i think it works the same way no matter what you do-suspension first will limit your wheel options...wheels first will limit your suspension options. do you want to be scraping low with small wheels, or keep it practical with bigger wheels, it's your choice!!
Winter is always a time of year where my symptoms flare and I think a lot of it is due to the cold weather. Winter, for me, is a happy time ...
Nina Paley follows with her experience buying and upgrading a used Calfee Stiletto.
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Loopwheels are a British manufacturer of world-class innovation in wheel technology. The Loopwheel is a new type of suspension wheel which reduces vibration and impact on wheelchairs and bikes.
In addition to these suspension extra springs are added at the handle and below the seat which gives the rider a smooth ride.
Cases to consider: 1: Idle - the spring should be able to carry the rider with no deflection, other wise if u lowered the spring from the beginning making the ground to hub distance smaller than the horizontal radius, you might experience lifting. but if it can support i believe its good
Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set and Car - £41.25 Free click & collect @ Argos The Hot Wheels Massive Loop Mayhem Track Set is a thrilling playset that gives kids the opportunity to test their Hot Wheels vehicles against each other! The set features a 71cm wide loop track which is perfect to race Hot Wheels cars. Kids can use the slam launcher to see how many vehicles can run at once and have nail-biting near-misses before some awesome crashes start to happen. One Hot Wheels racecar is included to get the excitement started! (Additional cars sold separately. ) Colours and decorations may vary.
There are various ways of attaching the wheels of the car so that they can move up and down on their springs and dampers , and do so with as little change as possible in the distance between adjacent wheels or in the near-vertical angle of the tyres to the road.
The loopwheel was designed by company founder Sam Pearce, a product designer and mechanical engineer. The spokes have been replaced by a new interior that makes it easier to go over uneven or bumpy ground and removes vibration.
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