Gekko are designed for wheelchair users with complete hand function and complete or limited hand strength. Our best selling ergonomic push rim.
As you can see, the fitment looks very good on the car. The wheels and tires fill out the wheel wells satisfyingly, though don’t rub in any way. Since the tires are summer fitment, we are running them only in warmer weather. Before the seasons turned, we were able to log some miles and found that the greater weight and larger contact patch with summer compound tires did take a toll on range. We’ve seen that come in at about 185-190 miles for a full charge in fall temperatures.
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Schwalbe Spicer K-Guard 3
The wheels were launched in 2013 after 4 years of rigorous testing and development. After a successful Kickstarter campaign they are now available to purchase online. Stay on top of the latest engineering news Just enter your email and we’ll take care of the rest:
I doubt I will find the exact pictures/config I'm looking for. It's going to be hard, if not impossible, to find pics of a G37x coupe on stock suspension with 20x8.5 wheels with 245/35/20 tires all around. I've been looking for weeks on the entire internet.
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The big limitation that I can see, is that if there is any deflection when the rider gets on the bike, that means that the rider is essentially pedaling uphill all the time (Because he has to compress the springs as he moves forward). The other problem is that unless the springs are precisely calibrated to the riders weight this will really destroy the rolling efficiency of the bicycle. Malcolm Jacks May 23, 2020 03:09 AM
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Swivel sandwich casters Material: PP wheel bonded to elastic rubber Size:100mm x 32mm ; 125mm x 35mm Load:110kg,150kg Bearing: Roller Bearing Purpose:Shock resistant casters,Shock proof casters,Industry caster wheels,trolley casters
Loopwheeled
Some of the most important parts of a car’s suspension system include tires, shock absorbers or struts, arms and bushings, ball joints, coil springs, and stabilizer bar link. Like most parts on the car, the shock absorbers and/or struts need to be checked regularly as part of the service schedule of the car. • Frequency of regular maintenance such as chassis lubrication and wheel alignment
Take your trial wheels for a spin. Try them out on roads, cobbled pavements or grass and feel an incredible difference.
This tri-shock wheel concept could, conceivably, make singletrack and downhill even less jarring. But with every bump that’s softened, there’s a little more energy that’s drained from the ride itself.
Midwest born, Nate Mitka is based in the GearJunkie Denver office. He is an advocate of all outdoor activities and has developed some habits, like running without headphones, eating raw vegetables, and fixing the chain on his ratty old bike. 30% Off Osprey and More Outdoor Gear Deals Score 31% Off This Smartwool Merino 150 Base Layer Markdowns Up to 65% Off: Winter Clearance Gear, Apparel The Bestselling Gear at REI This Week Previous Slide◀︎ View More Deals Next Slide▶︎
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Suspension Casters
Do you have a trike with a rigid frame, in other words, one that is not suspended? Are you getting tired of all those nasty road irregularities knocking you around and loosening the fillings in your teeth? Had enough torture for this lifetime? Want a posh and smile-producing experience? Well then, Loopwheels may offer a solution, according to their website. Essentially, with these wheels on a rigid trike, the trike is no longer rigid, that is to say, once installed in place of traditional spoked wheels, you now have full suspension in all three corners of your triangulated realm! Cool.
Loopwheels launched their journey into production off the back of two highly successful Kickstarter campaigns in 2013 & 2015 where the response from the community was astounding. The brand has since expanded worldwide and now distributes products to over 20 countries.
Note: When used for mechanical supports, load capacities of brackets, fittings and other supporting elements should be in compliance with the American Standard Code for Pressure Piping. Clamps are designed to be used with W, M, S & HP Shape beams, Standard C & Misc. MC Channels, Angles & Structural Tees. Clamps must be used in pairs where indicated. For beam clamps with HG finish, standard hardware is EG finish. For optional stainless steel hardware, please contact the factory for availability.
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It’s one thing to look at the video, but up close they really are a sight to behold – they literally challenge everything you think you know about a spoked bike wheel.
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Curve Wheels
Please review and accept our Privacy Policy before signing up for the newsletter. Unread posts All posts Latest activity New vehicle showcases New showcase comments Thread starter SandyEggoSi Start date Jan 25, 2018 Tags aftermarket rims stock suspension wheels First Name Dave Joined Dec 24, 2017 Messages 113 Reaction score 76 Location San Diego, CA Car(s) 2017 Civic Si Rallye Red
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Wheelchair Ice Hockey
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Xtreme Wheelchair
Kids can send the included Hot Wheels vehicle spinning around the giant 71cm wide track loop to see if it safely lands, using the slam launcher.
Loopwheels are an innovative approach to wheelchair suspension and shock absorption.
they sent me another one with out having to return the first one and the tire on the second one is also bent. now I am waiting for a refund while I have 2 broken bikes. I am a police officer and bought this bike to train and exercise for bike patrol. Used the bike for the first time yesterday and it broke a few hours into training with maybe 6 miles on it. Front fork seals were in poor condition and leaked fluid right from the start. Front brake cable came loose during some braking drills. Finally the back gear system snapped and locked up the back tire almost causing me to crash. I know the is not a $2,000 or $3,000 dollar bike, but for almost $500, it should be a much better built bike then it was. Very disappointing. When I picked up the package, I was impressed at the condition of the box. There were no smashed corners or gashes. Upon opening the box, I was happy to see such efficient packing, padding and securing of items so nothing rubbed together. The bike arrived with no scratch whatsoever on it!
Seems like a lot of the aftermarket wheels are on lowered Supras, anybody here running aftermarket wheels with stock suspension? Unfortunately with my driveway and roads, lowering may not be an option due to the possibility of scraping. I feel others may be in the same boat so this may be a helpful thread. Please share photos and specs of your aftermarket wheels/tires with stock suspension! First Name Sam Joined May 4, 2020 Messages 167 Reaction score 158 Location Houston Car(s) 2021 A91, 2008 S2000 CR, tow pigs First Name Dan Joined Oct 5, 2020 Messages 64 Reaction score 107 Location OH, US Car(s) '21 Supra 3.0 premium Gram Lights 57CR in gloss black: 19x9.5 +25, 19x10.5 +35 stock tires, stock suspension. Doubt I'll ever change it, but if I do, it'll be a minimal drop because I'm not getting any younger First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE but none the less, here is my contribution. still trying to figure out my fitment tho.. i dont think im going to lower my car (due to my driveway, which i already scrape on, and my daily drives) theyre ESR SR01 19x9.5 +22 front and 19x10.5 +22 on rears. I had to run a 12mm spacer in front to clear the caliper (which i thought it was going to clear, but sadly was wong) which made my rear fitment a bit weak compared to the front. so i had to compensate with a little 5mm spacer on the rear (still not sure whether to run a 5mm or 10mm spacer on the rear, i feel like 10mm would be really pushing it and will rub badly.) First Name Steve Joined Nov 21, 2020 Messages 593 Reaction score 574 Location Beaufort South Carolina Car(s) 2021 a91 edition Supra 2016 Lexus rc f BMW 435I imo Wheels should not poke out from the fenders...makes the car look like a 4 wheel drive...but each his own If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? First Name Kyle Joined Jun 22, 2020 Messages 243 Reaction score 123 Location CA Car(s) 2020 A90 GR Supra, 1996 NA Miata, 2014 Camry SE If so why not change the barrels for a more flush fit? Or were you going for a poke look? i was going for a more "flush" look and its the only offset they offered. I thought i was going to clear upfront, and worried more with the rear. but it turned out the other way around.. and since the front poked out, i was trying to compensate on the rears. but i dont mind "a little" poke just not too much. oh well at least it looks decent
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I might eventually drop it. You have remember though, the roadsters sit atleast a half inch lower than the coupes to begin with (stock). Here's mine on 19's. I'll probably cut down the spring seats to level it up a bit in the rear. Use a slightly taller tire. That helps alot. Mine are 275/35/19 and 285/35/19 and I love the way it looks on the stock suspension. Last edited by Firehawk; 02-26-2007 at 03:34 AM. with my roadster, i went from Eibach, to Hotchkis, and now waiting for Tein Htech to come in. I think Htech will be the perfect drop for me, LOL Even with 35 sidewall tires, the gap in stock suspension is horrible. There are a lot of good points that have been made in this thread. I think a big factor in your decision will be really the road conditions in your area. Lots of changes in slopes that cause you to bottom out would not be a good thing for a lowered vehicle. The cars I have seen here look quite good, mostly because they have either 19s or dubs on them.
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To ensure that its product lived up to user standards, Softwheel turned to Dror Cohen, who became a paraplegic after a car accident in 1992. Cohen eventually became a decorated athlete, leading Israel to the gold medal in sailing (sonar class) in the 2004 Paralympics in Athens, Greece.
A heads up to politicians and city planners: stop wasting your money on bike lanes, tax incentives, and PSA campaigns. All you need do to persuade your constituents to trade in cars for bicycles on their morning commute...
The rim won’t bend or suffer from any deformation. Just the hub will move relatively to it. Ryan on April 15th, 2013 - 9:32am Nash on April 15th, 2013 - 11:00am ant1 on April 15th, 2013 - 1:29pm g on April 15th, 2013 - 11:36pm i'd like to see some comparisons on April 23rd, 2013 - 1:15pm
Kerbs are less of an obstacle with Loopwheels. Loopwheels reduce jolting, soften the impact of landing, and so can help manage discomfort.
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A rear-wheel-drive car often has a live axle , a tube containing both the drive shafts (half shafts) and the differential gears . A four-wheel-drive car may have a live front axle as well.
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Isn’t this criticism true of the vast majority of front suspension systems on the market though? Other than a few crazy linkage equipped forks that never really caught on, compression of a suspension fork will steepen the head angle and shorten the wheelbase too. dorkdisk on May 20th, 2016 - 2:25pm
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If this is the case, are there any mods that have wheels direct-mounted to a simple block?
These air shocks are tuneable to give you whatever level of tire deflection you choose, from super-firm to softer and squishier than a regular deflated tire can handle. Likewise, you can design in whatever degree of lateral flex suits your application, and even whatever level of torque flex you'd like, which allows the wheel to flex a little on the axle before it turns. This allows it to act as a soft torque coupler and gives a touch more traction in very difficult circumstances before the wheel spins, as well as slightly isolating the drive train from damaging torque forces in the rough stuff.
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The primary purpose of a shock or strut is to keep the tire rolling flat on the ground when driving down the road. They are designed to provide stability in your vehicle suspension system. They play a vital role when it comes to vehicle performance, handling, braking, and wheel alignment. It is recommended that shocks and struts should be replaced every 50,000 miles.
Suspension blocks are the quickest way to provide both, in addition to suspension and turning capabilities, but don't necessarily meet all demands. A rotor can also be used, but has a much lower maximum speed (60rpm, regardless of wheel size) for propulsion purposes - however it can also have its braking torque set to 0 to make it a free-wheeling axle.
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When I first saw the notice about this company and its products, I thought: who can resist such things? Many of the bicyclists that I know, want to share the joy of their hobby/obsession, sometimes by wearing t-shirts or jerseys with logos on them. Now, they can do that with vinyl decals that they can apply in so many places! So, I got in touch with the company to find out more about their products.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
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