In My case, I'm building a gantry with multiple axis of movement, as a means of making construction easier (the gantry would be used to, say, grab a WIP and lift, shift, and rotate it so I could get to otherwise inaccessible sections of the WIP).
Looks great...thanks! Those are very clear, telling pics...no fear about getting 20" wheels now. I appreciate it. Not to mention the tires are significantly cheaper than 19's. What I was referring to before was a generalization with 19" wheels as opposed to your concern of having 20". When it comes to how a car looks with aftermarket wheels, it really depends on a combination of the offset, size and width. A combination of the three as compared with stock specs will either give you more positive or negative camber and therefore can change the wheel gap. Before you make your purchase, I recommend learning how the dimensions of your setup will change based on the wheels that you want. This will give you a better understanding of their affect on your wheel gap. The pics i've seen so far have been fine so I doubt there will be a huge change but nonetheless, your best bet would be finding a picture of a stock suspension car with the same sized wheels and offsets that you want.
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In a Globe story this February, reporter Eric Moskowitz noted that Boston fills approximately 19,000 potholes in an average winter, and that the city has gone as far as developing a new app, called Street Bump, that attempts to give drivers the ability to instantly notify City Hall when a new crater appears. And that's just the city of Boston. Do the math and consider how many gaping holes have appeared in the New England region after last winter's prodigious snowfall.
Boston.com reports the latest trends, auto shows and wrings out the newest cars in our city's hellish maze — and across the great roads of New England. Keep up with all the latest Boston sports news --from the court to the field to the rink with this daily newsletter Contributors Clifford Atiyeh is an automotive writer and car enthusiast . He has spent his entire life driving cars he doesn't own. In the garage: 1995 21-speed Iron Horse, 2002 Jeep Wrangler X (by association) Bill Griffith is a veteran Boston Globe reporter, having reviewed cars for more than 10 years and serving as assistant sports editor for 25 years. He was also the paper's sports media columnist. In the garage: 2006 Subaru Baja John Paul is public affairs manager for AAA Southern New England, a certified mechanic, and a Globe columnist. He hosts a weekly radio show on WROL.
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A dead axle - a rigid beam - is now used at the front on vans and trucks only. Some front-wheel-drive cars have a dead rear axle. A double-wishbone suspension. Wishbones are fitted at their outer ends to the top and bottom of the steering swivel member. The two forks of each wishbone extend inward to pivot on the frame. A tie rod - a steadying bar - is connected between the frame and the lower wishbone.
I find it difficult to credit the coach moving down the hill with 20,000 - 40,000 lbs of motorhome pressing the jack pads into the earth. That assumes the jacks are rated for the full coach weight and don't break under the load. My 36,000 lb coach had 4 x 16,000 lb jacks, so I wasn't too worried. Back in the day some coaches had poor frame rigidity, especially up front, so the front cap and windshield frame would often twist if the front wheels came off the ground. My '96 Southwind (F53 chassis) was like that and I avoided ever lifting the front to even barely touching cause the windshield would start to move. My 2002 W22 chassis coach didn't seem to have any problem with that but I was still careful. My 2004 DP was stable as a mountain no matter how much it was jacked. Spent many a summer at my brothers home in SW PA with wheels off the ground. He lives on a hill side and the 2012 Tour never had a problem.
We’re pretty sure there’s no need to reinvent the bicycle wheel. That, of course, won’t stop anyone from trying to and the Loopwheels definitely seem like a nice upgrade.
A picture of the very incomplete gantry as it currently is, to give a better idea of what I'm up to: < > The only other way to get wheels to turn is either roll them freely unbound to anything, or attach them to a rotor. You can adjust the suspension settings to make them ridged, and you can use vertically oriented suspensions to prevent side wobble as if it was on rails. Wheels lack any form of propulsion on their own. They also lack any form of innate rotation ability. They're just cylindrical objects, exactly as they are in the real world (try welding a wheel directly to something sometime and see how well it spins). You need to provide an axle to them, and propulsion should you require it as well.
That was a fantastic read. Thanks for sharing, I have already made a list of things I want to do with my car, granted not an interior list nor a 100% complete list, but as far as budget and small things (considering its just gonna be a mild modded DD) as the thread you linked calls it but I still got something out of it. Thanks again. Eventually i'm going to do a B-Swap but suspension work is a no brainer to get out of the way, atleast in my opinion OK..........so why are you asking us what should you do first if its a no brainer to you? Civics of your vintage need to be lowered about 2.5-3" with stock sized tires before you remove all wheel gap. This is too low for stock length shocks. A good riding spring lowers the car about 1-2" maximum. Some suggestions would be eibach pro kits, h&r sports, or Tein S techs with koni STRT shocks. They'll work fine with 15x7 +40 or so. I'd use 205/50/15's. But you can also use the stock 195/55/15. If you buy the wheels/tires first, the car will look funny until you lower it.
Spring shock absorber caster Wheel Material:PP core,Nylon wheels Size:Ø152 x 50mm ; Ø203 x 50mm Loading Capacity:260kg ~ 300kg Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearing
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A shock absorbing wheel has its limitations. For starters, special rims would have to pair with these spoke-shocks. Plus, the high cost of shock absorbers suggests this wheelset would be extremely expensive, and the weight of the wheel would, presumably, be much heavier than traditional wheels.
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Measure your peak horsepower, torque and boost pressure on any run with an integrated dynamometer. Then compare it to previous records.
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