Put three of these on your trike, then write up your evaluation for the TA readers.
Loopwheels have developed a robust wheel with world-class suspension that works at higher speeds, for use with power attachments. The springs utilise hi-tech carbon composite materials and are available in 2 spring strengths (Regular and Stiff), which will allow customers to get the best comfort and health protection for their weight and the typical activities that they undertake. Weighing under 3lbs (1.36kg) per wheel, and removing much more vibration than any other brand of a wheel, it is the definitive wheel if you love travelling faster on tracks and off-road. Made in England Loopwheels are vibration reducing wheels. Integral suspension gives you a smoother ride.
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A Loopwheel is a wheel with integral suspension, designed to reduce vibration and increase performance and provide greater comfort.
It's unclear at this point whether you'd lose any forward motion energy due to torque flex, but that can be tuned out of the system if required in any case. It's also unclear how much a pair of wheelchair-sized ASWs would cost at this point. We assume they're not cheap compared to a regular rim and tire setup. Here's some annoyingly infomercial-style video comparing regular wheelchair wheels to an ASW setup over curbs and grassy, uneven terrain.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Personally I don't like to lift wheels off the ground with the jacks and I would never lift the drives off the ground. If it's so unlevel that the wheels would be off the ground, I'll run up on some boards first to get close, then finish leveling with the jacks. Fronts are ok. You won’t damage anything. As stated above, never the rears (drive wheels) because the parking brakes are on the rears. If you’re not comfortable with the fronts being off the ground, you can build some small ramps or wood blocks you can drive the front wheels onto. If you search for ramps on this forum you’ll find lots of examples. When an air bag RV is lifted, ONLY the axle weight is left on the ground. no matter the lift height. This is unlike a leaf or coil spring vehicle. The tires provide limited stopping. If the leveler pads are on softer ground, they will put much restriction to the RV moving sideways as the pads will be in a hole. The suspension system has no problem handing from the shocks / limit straps. It endures FAR greater stress while you are driving down the road soaking up the bumps and road heaves. All that being said, try to NOT lift the RV any further up than is required. Things inevitably break. Hydraulic lines, solenoids, seals etc. You don't want a single leg to drop on it's own which the torques the chassis. An RV up in the air is invitation to crawl underneath or store stuff under. Not good when something breaks. So, pick a more level spot or use blocks to get the rig as level as you can before lifting. Don't park on a hill and lift so that there is no chance of slipping sideways (tire and / or leveling pad friction). Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times... I don't like to lift either off the ground ever. I only use the jacks enough to level the final little bit and to not have the coach shake while moving around in it. The thread Sonic posted is great! I use 2x10s like suggested in the posted link, but took it slightly further. I didn't cut an angle, don't really need it and in the past I found that it sometimes gives them the ability to slip while driving onto them. I would post pictures but it is in the shop for engine repair and the boards are in unit. Basically I took 2x10s and cut 2 boards the longest that would fit in the bay I was storing them in (about 36 inches long). I then cut 3 more boards about 8 inches shorter (for a total of 4 boards high), so lenghts of, 12, 20, 28, 36 long. I have 2 sets in case there is a need for the rear duals to go on boards. To keep the boards from sliding when driving onto them, I bought 3 different size carriage bolts that would go through 2, 3, or 4 boards but not all the way through, just long enough to keep them stable as you drive. I then took a spade bit that was 1/8 inch larger than the bolts and drilled through all 4 boards to accommodate the bolts, i did this in the rear where they would line up even and no worry about puncturing tires if they popped up slightly. I then took a spade bit slightly larger than the bolt head, and drilled on top of the holes the thickness of the bolt head. This way they sit down flush with the boards. It works very well! For the jack pads, I couldn't use anything very thick, as if I am on level ground and I dump the air, I only have about 4 inches between the jack pad and ground. I took 2x4s, and cut them the length of 3 2x4s put next to each other. I cut 6 in total. I then laid them crossways (think the first 2 layers of Jenga) and nailed them together from both sides. These work great for leveling! When i get it back from the shop next week I will try to remember to post some pictures. Your drive axle (brakes) always have to be on the ground... else you'll go down hill as soon after you've walked bow to stern inside the coach a few times...
"This amazing mobility shop has been a fabulous help and support to me since my Ehlers Danlos Syndrome started affecting my vascular system and spine making walking and standing still extremely difficult for me. My decision to use a wheelchair for the first time was a difficult one, and I literally had no clue. Craig was fabulous from first con … "
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With any wheels there is always a little trepidation about hitting larger more inanimate objects but with Sam goading me on I started to aim for rocks, ruts and tree roots (did I mention we were riding off road!!!) and in every instance the wheels soaked up the impact, leaving me free to ride the bike without worry of knackered rims, aching arms or even getting up out of the saddle to soak up the impact – you can just let the wheels do the work.
There are three times when you should get your steering and suspension systems inspected. Every 50,000 miles (approximately 80,000 km). As part of your annual service or any time your car is in for routine service and the steering and suspension systems are accessible. When your tyres are replaced. When your brakes are serviced. When your oil and filters are changed.
When taking on dunes, this off-road truck reduces shift times by 68%, sets its suspension on full damping and allows for moderate oversteer to impart maximum fun.
Midwest born, Nate Mitka is based in the GearJunkie Denver office. He is an advocate of all outdoor activities and has developed some habits, like running without headphones, eating raw vegetables, and fixing the chain on his ratty old bike. 30% Off Osprey and More Outdoor Gear Deals Score 31% Off This Smartwool Merino 150 Base Layer Markdowns Up to 65% Off: Winter Clearance Gear, Apparel The Bestselling Gear at REI This Week Previous Slide◀︎ View More Deals Next Slide▶︎
Made of superior formulation Hyperflex polyurethane and high precision bearings. Experience little or no rolling resistance! The unique polyurethane material and design allows smooth, unimpeded rolling for indoor/outdoor ease of movement over cracks, washers, misc. debris, etc. Fits Most Standard Caster Assemblies. Available in red or black. Rides on precision ABEC high quality bearings. Installs in a few minutes with two 5/32" hex wrenches (not included). All hardware is included. Automotive-Type Mechanic Creepers Small Tool Chests and Trays Many Kinds Of Seats With Caster Wheels Various Types of Table and Rack Carriers Quick Links About Us Support Account Login Return Policy Shipping Info Privacy Policy Installation Instructions Sitemap Dealer Inquiries
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Over the winter of 2014-15, we’ve been developing and trialling our first 20 inch loopwheels designed especially for recumbent trikes. The springs are designed to cope with fast cornering and the particular forces of side-axles. We’re really happy with the results. Loopwheels-builder Graeme cycles the 12 miles to work on his trike most days – fitted with loopwheels, of course. He’s been pushing us to get these ready to share! We showed these new trike wheels at the Spezi show in Germersheim, Germany on 25 and 26 April 2015, along with another new design for trikes, with our own hubs and a disc brake fitting.
A rear-wheel-drive car often has a live axle , a tube containing both the drive shafts (half shafts) and the differential gears . A four-wheel-drive car may have a live front axle as well.
Probably needs CX bike tyre clearances on the forks and stays while fitted with 700×23 tyres. Else the wheels/tyres will bottom out onto the frameset / fork crown on hard bumps wouldn’t it ?? Ol'shel' on May 20th, 2016 - 11:16pm